Tudor

Wristwatches from Tudor are highly coveted among watch enthusiasts. This is true of both their current and vintage models. Since its foundation, Tudor's primary focus has been on high-quality craftsmanship and the use of precise movements. They stepped out of sister company Rolex's shadow long ago and are creating luxury watches at a level on par with the world's most famous watch manufacturers. Their most popular collections include the Black Bay, Pelagos, North Flag and Heritage Chrono Blue.

The highlight of Tudor's current catalog is the Black Bay collection, which the manufacturer regularly releases new models for. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is 2 mm smaller than the standard Black Bay, making it a fantastic option for smaller wrists. Like most Tudor timepieces, this 39-mm diving watch features a chronometer-certified in-house caliber. In 2020 and 2021, Tudor launched several new versions of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, including the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue with a blue dial, Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 with a silver case, and other editions in gold or bronze.

The Heritage Chrono series contains a selection of distinctive men's chronographs. The very first model won the "Petite Aiguille" ("little hand") prize at the 2017 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. This column-wheel chronograph uses an in-house caliber that Tudor developed in collaboration with Breitling, and boasts a 70-hour power reserve. The manufacturer also treated the Black Bay Chrono to a few new models in 2021. Now you can find timepieces with panda or reverse panda dials. Furthermore, these latest editions are 1 mm flatter than their predecessors.

When considering Tudor, it's also worth looking at their collectible neo-vintage models like the Submariner Snowflake. This timepiece has ridden the wave of success created by various Rolex Submariner watches, and prices for well-maintained examples have increased significantly in recent years.

You can purchase a never-worn Tudor, such as a three-hand 1926 in stainless steel, for as little as 1,600 USD. This watch comes with an automatic caliber from the ebauché movement manufacturer ETA. Prices for a 32-mm Black Bay 32 in stainless steel begin at just over 2,200 USD. Its caliber, the T600, is based on an ETA movement. Be sure to have at least 4,300 USD on hand for an entry-level Black Bay diving watch with a 41-mm case. You can call a stainless steel Black Bay Fifty-Eight your own for roughly 4,200 USD, while the edition in sterling silver demands about 5,100 USD.

If you're interested in a mint-condition Black Bay chronograph like the ref. M79360N, be prepared to spend around 6,500 USD. The ref. 7928 and 9411 make fantastic alternatives to vintage Rolex Submariners and cost between 11,000 and 15,000 USD.

Diving watches enjoy widespread popularity. Those that combine retro looks with state-of-the-art technology are especially sought after. Some of the industry's most popular retro diving watches belong to the Heritage Black Bay series. This line premiered in 2012 and has since grown by several models.

You can purchase a stainless steel Tudor Heritage Black Bay chronograph (ref. 79350) on a steel bracelet for as little as 5,100 USD. The Black Bay Chrono Dark and S&G are even newer. Tudor introduced the former in honor of the New Zealand All Blacks for the 2019 Rugby World Cup. So far, the manufacturer has limited this solid black chronograph to a run of 1,181 copies. This model has significantly appreciated in value since then. While it has an official list price of 5,925 USD, mint-condition pieces demand around 9,000 USD.

On the other hand, Tudor has set no limit to the number of Black Bay Chrono S&G watches they will produce. This sporty and elegant two-tone watch sells for about 6,600 USD on Chrono24. Tudor lists the same timepiece for 6,800 USD.

Each Black Bay chronograph comes with a tachymeter scale for calculating speed and distance. The dial has a 45-minute counter for the chronograph at 3, a date at 6, and a small seconds at 9 o'clock. A triangular index marks 12 o'clock, while dot indices represent the other hours.

New Black Bay Chronographs From 2021

In 2021, Tudor announced several new Black Bay chronographs at the international watch fair Watches & Wonders. The new releases even included versions with panda and reverse panda dials. The panda-dial edition has a white dial and black subdials, while the reverse panda model has a black dial with gray subdials. Inside the case, you'll find the in-house chronometer caliber MT5813 with a 70-hour power reserve. The latest chronographs measure only 14.4 mm thick, meaning they are 1 mm thinner than their predecessors.

In terms of band, you can choose from stainless steel, textile, or leather with an inner lining. The ref. M79360N-0001 pairs a black dial with a stainless steel bracelet and costs around 6,600 USD in mint condition. You can save roughly 450 USD by purchasing a watch with a leather (ref. M79360N-0005) or textile (ref. M79360N-0007) strap.

Water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft), the Black Bay is modeled after early Submariner models from the 1950s. This explains its large crown, lack of a crown protector, and domed crystal. Tudor initially equipped the Black Bay with the ETA caliber 2824.

Watches from 2012 with a 41-mm case and an ETA movement are especially popular and make sound investments. The Black Bay ref. 79220N demands at least 7,200 USD. For comparison, a brand new Black Bay ref. 79230N with an in-house caliber costs roughly 3,600 USD.

Tudor introduced new versions with the in-house caliber MT5612 in 2017. Select models, such as the Black Bay Steel, come with a date display at 3 o'clock – a relatively rare sight in this collection. This watch (ref. M79730-0006) requires an investment of around 3,000 USD.

Black Bay Dark and S&G

If you prefer all-black watches, you should take a look at the Black Bay Dark. Its 41-mm stainless steel case and bracelet have a black coating. The luminous hands and hour markers make for a stark contrast and offer excellent readability regardless of lighting conditions. The white minute markers and the bezel's minute scale also stand out against the black background. A never-worn Black Bay Dark costs about 4,300 USD.

The two-tone Black Bay S&G is also popular and features in many promotional photos with retired English soccer star David Beckham. As a style icon, Beckham is the perfect brand ambassador for Tudor. The stainless steel Black Bay S&G is available with a two-tone metal bracelet or leather strap. Like the Black Bay Steel, the in-house movement MT5612 with a date display powers these watches. Set aside around 4,900 USD for a new version with a stainless steel and gold bracelet.

About the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue

Introduced in 2020, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue resembles the Tudor "Snowflake" Submariner from the 1960s and 70s. Like the black edition, the Navy Blue has a 39-mm stainless steel case that is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 565 ft). However, as its name implies, the Navy Blue comes with a blue dial and aluminum bezel. It gets its power from the in-house caliber MT5402 with a 70-hour power reserve. You can purchase the Navy Blue on your choice of a stainless steel bracelet (ref. 79030B) or a blue synthetic strap. The former variant sells for roughly 4,100 USD on Chrono24.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight in Silver and Gold

In spring 2021, Tudor presented two new Black Bay Fifty-Eights in precious metals. First was the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 ref. M79010SG-0001 in sterling silver. This model is also the first time Tudor has outfitted the Black Bay with a transparent sapphire crystal case back. Thanks to this feature, you can watch the in-house caliber MT5400 at work. Like the rest of the Black Bay series, the 925 is water-resistant to 200 m (656 ft, 20 bar). Tudor outfits this timepiece with a taupe dial and bezel and mounts it on a matching textile or leather strap. A never-worn edition will set you back around 5,100 USD.

If you like the look of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight but wish it came in gold, look no further than the Fifty-Eight 18K (ref. M79018V-0001). Its 39-mm case is solid 18-karat yellow gold, and a completely satin finish lends this timepiece a more subtle feel. Similar to the Black Bay 925, the 18K has a sapphire crystal case back. The dial and aluminum bezel are green with gold accents on the hands, indices, and diving scale. Finally, Tudor ships this watch on a leather strap with a complimentary textile strap. The only thing standing between you and this timepiece is 17,000 USD.

The New 41-mm Ceramic Black Bay

Ceramic watches are a trend Tudor was always going to get on board with. Thus, in 2021, the manufacturer announced the Black Bay Ceramic (ref. 79210CNU), a new version of the 41-mm Black Bay in black ceramic. Another new feature is the caliber MT5602-1U, which the independent Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) has certified as a Master Chronometer. This black movement boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon hairspring. What's more, it can resist magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss and is chronometer-certified. A black dial and bezel enhance this model's sleek look, and a black leather strap completes the package. As for the price, you can call this watch your own for roughly 5,600 USD.

Extraordinary: The Black Bay P01

Those with more extravagant tastes may enjoy the Heritage Black Bay P01. This isn't your average wristwatch. Its design comes from a diving watch prototype Tudor developed for the U.S. Navy in the 1960s. However, the public didn't get their first glimpse of this once-secret watch until the 2019 release of its remake, the P01. Defining details include a crown at 4 o'clock and bulging lugs with locking clamps – a feature unique to this timepiece alone. At 42 mm in diameter, this watch is also the largest three-hand Black Bay model. You can find mint-condition models on Chrono24 for roughly 4,100 USD.

Black Bay 32, 36, and 41 With No Diving Bezel

Tudor also offers versions without diving bezels in the form of the Black Bay 32, 36, and 41. As their names imply, these timepieces are 32, 36, and 41 mm in diameter, respectively. In addition to stainless steel watches with a blue or black dial, the manufacturer also produces two-tone models known as the Black Bay S&G. These variants are available with a gold or black dial. No matter which version you choose, it will have a polished bezel similar to that of the Rolex Explorer. While S&G models only come on two-tone steel bracelets, the stainless steel editions come with your choice of a textile strap, leather strap, or stainless steel bracelet.

Prices for a new stainless steel Black Bay 32 ref. 79580 sit around 2,600 USD. Lady Gaga is a fan of the Black Bay 36 S&G ref. M79503-0002, which costs about 4,100 USD in mint condition. Tudor's official list price for this watch is 4,050 USD. If you're interested in a 41-mm timepiece, the stainless steel ref. 79540 is sure to do the trick. This version sells for approximately 3,400 USD.

The name Heritage Ranger makes it clear that this model is inspired by a historic watch – namely the Oyster Prince Ranger from the 1960s. The new Ranger's simple design is very similar to its historic predecessor, especially its dial. Arabic numerals are located at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, while indices are used for the other hour markers. The arrow-shaped hour hand and the skinny second hand with a luminous rectangular box on its final third bring to mind the original model from the 1960s. Rolex aficionados will notice similarities to the Rolex Explorer, which should come as no surprise since Tudor – a Rolex sister company – uses numerous Rolex components. This includes the Oyster case, which explains the original watch's name: Oyster Prince Ranger.

A diameter of 41 mm sets the current Tudor Heritage Ranger apart from the historic watch and brings it up to modern standards. In terms of bands, you can choose from a three-piece link bracelet, a brown leather strap, or a cuffed band with a leather underlay. Each variant also includes two textile straps. Due to its sporty and simple design, the Ranger is appropriate for almost any occasion and coordinates with almost any outfit. For these watches, Tudor decided on the proven ETA caliber 2824. You can purchase a never-worn model on a stainless steel bracelet for around 2,800 USD.

The Heritage Chrono is a retro chronograph inspired by early Tudor Oysterdate Chronographs from the 1970s. A striking feature found on the current model is its colorful dial that looks straight out of the 70s. The Heritage Chrono Blue feels especially fresh with its blue bezel, blue subdials, and a blue edge around the dial.

Tudor equips this watch with the automatic ETA caliber 2892 with a chronograph module. You can measure time periods up to 45 minutes with this movement using the subdial at 9 o'clock. The small seconds dial is located at 3 o'clock, and you can determine the date in a small window at 6 o'clock. Thanks to the bidirectional bezel with 12-hour graduation, you can also keep track of a second time zone. Prices for the Heritage Chrono Blue begin around 4,400 USD for watches in mint condition.

Tudor tool watches endeavor to be scientific instruments with a modern look. The brand's so-called "tool watches" include the Pelagos and the North Flag, which have begun to feature in-house movements and are regarded as robust and reliable. The Pelagos diving watch is made of light and durable titanium and is water resistant to 500 m (1,640 ft, 50 bar). It is available with a black dial and bezel or a blue dial and bezel. The crown of the LHD model ("Left Hand Drive") is on the left side and is geared toward left-handed customers who like to wear their watches on their right wrists.

Thanks to the helium escape valve, the Pelagos is also suitable for professional saturation diving. During decompression, the helium escape valve prevents damage from excess pressure building up in the watch. The patented folding clasp on the titanium bracelet is ideal for divers since it automatically adjusts the bracelet's length to the size of the wetsuit. When the pressure increases underwater, the wetsuit is compressed, and the band shortens. As pressure is released, the suit expands, and the band lengthens. A new Tudor Pelagos diving watch on a titanium band (ref. M25600TN-0001) sells for around 4,300 USD,

New in 2021: The Blue Pelagos FXD

In November 2021, Tudor introduced the Pelagos FXD (ref. M25707B/21-0001) in titanium, a new take on the beloved tool watch. This timepiece is actually the result of a two-year collaboration between Tudor and the French Navy's combat swimmer unit "Hubert." Like the black Pelagos, the FXD is 42 mm in diameter. However, unlike its sister model, its case and lugs are all from a single block of metal, making it nearly impossible to lose the watch while on an underwater mission. This construction is called "fixed lugs" and is where the term "FXD" comes from.

The Pelagos FXD's dial and bezel are blue, while the hands and indices are coated in white SuperLuminova. Inside the case, you'll find the automatic in-house caliber MT5602. This movement is chronometer-certified and comes with a 70-hour power reserve. A blue textile strap completes the watch. As of writing, there were no listings for this model on Chrono24. However, Tudor lists it for 3,900 USD on their website.

Simple and Reliable: The Tudor North Flag

The understated North Flag is inspired by the reliability of Tudor watches worn during the British North Greenland Expedition in the 1950s. The 40-mm stainless steel case is entirely satin-brushed and has an angular design, underlining its scientific nature. The double bezel made of stainless steel and ceramic integrates seamlessly with the design of this functional watch. The in-house movement MT5621 is certified as a chronometer, shows the date at 3 o'clock, and features a power reserve display at 9 o'clock. You can buy a North Flag for around 4,000 USD. Since Tudor discontinued the North Flag relatively recently, it is possible that its prices will increase in the future.

Motorsport is the inspiration for the Tudor Fastrider and Grantour tool watches. Unsurprisingly, the majority of these watches have a chronograph function. There is even a Grantour with a flyback function, which shortens the process for measuring time periods. The caliber 2892 with a flyback chronograph module is responsible for the watch's precise timekeeping. Examples in mint condition sell for about 3,500 USD. If you can do without these convenient features, perhaps a Grantour Chrono with the ETA caliber 7753 is the right choice for you. You can buy one of these models starting at 3,000 USD new. The Grantour Date is a three-hand variant powered by the ETA caliber 2824 and is slightly more expensive. Never-worn pieces cost about 3,300 USD.

With its yellow, red, or green dial, the Fastrider is one of the most eye-catching Tudor watches on the market. A matte-black ceramic bezel and satin-brushed case highlight this chronograph's technical appearance. The pushers and crown are coated in black to match the bezel. Like the Grantour Chrono, Tudor utilizes the automatic chronograph caliber 7753 in the Fastrider. This caliber has a power reserve of 46 hours and a date display at 4:30. You can purchase a mint-condition Fastrider on a steel bracelet for roughly 3,700 USD. If you prefer the all-black Fastrider Black Shield model, plan to spend at least 5,900 USD for a new timepiece.

In addition to numerous retro and sports watches, Tudor also offers classically elegant women's and men's timepieces that go especially well with a business suit or evening wear. The Style collection is made up of simple three-hand watches with designs reminiscent of traditional wristwatches from the 1950s through the 1970s. A majority of the watches are made of stainless steel, though there are also two-tone variants in stainless steel and yellow gold. For the bands, Tudor utilizes leather, stainless steel, and a combination of steel and gold in the two-tone version. The cases range from 28 mm to 41 mm in diameter, meaning there is something for every wrist size. Medium-sized models between 34 mm and 38 mm make fantastic unisex watches. You can purchase a stainless steel Tudor Style in mint condition with a steel bracelet for as little as 2,000 USD. If you have your eye on a new two-tone model with a metal bracelet, you should set aside around 2,600 USD.

Tudor sells luxurious women's watches in their Glamour series. Top models boast diamond-encrusted bezels. The 36-mm two-tone edition demands about 4,500 USD. Men's watches include the 39-mm Date-Day (ref. M56000) with a day display at 12 o'clock, reminiscent of the Rolex Day-Date. This timepiece will set you back roughly 3,200 USD new. The 42-mm Double Date features a large date display beneath 12 o'clock and a small seconds dial at 6. It requires an investment of about 3,000 USD.

Tudor's history stretches all the way back to 1926. Rolex's founder Hans Wilsdorf was also the man behind this Genevan company. Wilsdorf's goal from the beginning was to manufacture reliable watches that were more affordable than comparable Rolex models. To achieve this, original Rolex parts, such as the Oyster case or Oyster bracelet, were used for many years. For their calibers, Tudor relied on less expensive alternatives from movement manufacturers like ETA, which still supplies Tudor with movements to this day. However, Tudor has also been using calibers developed in-house and manufactured in Genevan production halls since 2015.

Tudor's name is taken from the eponymous royal family, which sat on the English throne from 1485 to 1603. The logo is the Tudor rose from the family crest; the framing shield is a later addition. Together they symbolize the unity of strength and aesthetics. Today, the shield and the inscription "Tudor Geneve" embellish the dials of every watch.