Tudor

Wristwatches from Tudor are highly coveted among watch enthusiasts. This is true for both their current and vintage models. Since its foundation, Tudor's main focus has been on high-quality craftsmanship and the use of precise movements. They stepped out of Rolex's shadow long ago and are creating luxury watches at a level on par with the world's most famous watch manufacturers.

Watch fans know they are getting a first-class timepiece with outstanding value for money if they purchase a Tudor. This makes Tudor a good entry point into the world of luxury watch collecting. Pre-owned and rare vintage watches are so popular among collectors today that their prices have risen drastically in recent years. A timepiece that would have been a bargain only a few years ago now often costs several thousand dollars. Prices for more recent models from the 1990s and 2000s are also on the rise. The modern Tudor catalog is comprised of 12 collections; the most popular of which are the Black Bay, Pelagos, North Flag, and Classic. Tudor Heritage Chrono watches also have a large fan base.

One recent highlight is the Black Bay GMT, which debuted at Baselworld 2018. Tudor clearly intended this watch to rival the Rolex GMT-Master II. The manufacturer released another interesting model, the Black Bay Fifty Eight, that same year. This watch resembles the standard Black Bay but is 2 mm smaller, making it a great choice for slimmer wrists.

The in-house caliber MT5601 sits inside the 39-mm case. It boasts a three-day power reserve and magnetic resistance thanks to its silicon balance spring. This movement is also extremely precise and comes with chronometer certification from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

The Heritage Black Bay Chrono from 2017 is also extremely popular. This unique timepiece won that year's "Petit Aiguille" ("little hand") prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The in-house caliber MT5813 powers this retro column-wheel chronograph. It also comes with a 70-hour power reserve and COSC {lex-chronometer,chronometer} certification.

Tudor made a bold move with release of the Black Bay P01 at Baselworld 2019. Opinions were divided about this daring diving watch. Its design is based on a prototype Tudor developed for the U.S. Navy in the 1960s.

Prices for Tudor watches begin at a few hundred dollars for mass-produced vintage watches and go all the way up to around 33,000 USD for the rare Tudor Submariner ref. 7928. The 7928 hit shelves in 1959 and had a ten-year production run. It was also the first Tudor diving watch to have a crown protector.

Earlier models from 1954 bear the reference number 7922 and are extremely difficult to find. The ref. 7923, another extraordinarily uncommon model, sold at an online auction for 99,999 USD in 2017, making it the most expensive Tudor vintage watch to date. The 7923 is the only manual Tudor Submariner ever produced and has an especially flat case. Vintage chronographs from the 1970s are also highly coveted and can cost up to 22,000 USD.

Tudor offers numerous retro watches with designs inspired by the manufacturer's historic models in their Heritage collection. The catalog includes diving watches that are water resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft), sporty and simple three-hand watches, and functional chronographs. This line only needed a few years to develop into the Genevan manufacturer's flagship collection and is especially popular among watch fans.

Diving watches enjoy widespread popularity. Those that combine retro looks with state-of-the-art technology are especially sought after. Some of Tudor's most popular retro diving watches belong to the Heritage Black Bay series. This line premiered in 2012 and has since grown by several models.

Current top models cost significantly less than their vintage predecessors. For example, you can purchase a new stainless steel Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono with both steel and textile bands for as little as 4,200 USD. Prices for the version shipped with leather and textile straps begin around 3,800 USD. The Black Bay Chrono Dark and S&G are even newer. Tudor introduced the former in honor of the New Zealand All Blacks for the 2019 Rugby World Cup. To date, the manufacturer has produced 1,181 copies of this solid black timepiece. This model has significantly appreciated in value since then. While it has an official list price of 5,925 USD, mint-condition pieces demand around 8,800 USD.

On the other hand, Tudor has set no limit to the number of Black Bay Chrono S&G watches they produce. This sporty and elegant two-tone watch sells for about 6,600 USD on Chrono24. Tudor lists the same timepiece for 6,800 USD.

Three-Hand Black Bay Watches

Water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft), the Black Bay is modeled after early Submariner models from the 1950s. This explains its large crown, lack of a crown protector, and domed crystal. Tudor initially equipped the Black Bay with the ETA caliber 2824.

Watches from 2012 with a 41-mm case and an ETA movement are especially popular and make sound investments. The Black Bay ref. 79220N demands at least 3,700 USD. For comparison, a brand new Black Bay with an in-house caliber costs roughly 3,000 USD.

Tudor introduced new versions with the in-house caliber MT5612 in 2017. Select models, such as the Black Bay Steel, come with a date display at 3 o'clock – a relatively rare sight in this collection. New pieces require an investment of around 3,000 USD. You'll find pre-owned editions on Chrono24 for as little as 2,700 USD. Released in 2018, prices for the Heritage Black Bay Fifty Eight range from about 3,600 USD used to 4,100 USD in mint condition.

When it comes to the Heritage Black Bay's band, you have the choice between a distressed leather strap or stainless steel bracelet. Tudor ships various models with an additional textile strap so you can change the band as you desire. For the bezel, you can choose from red, blue, or black. All in all, the Black Bay is a highly diverse collection with many ways to mix and match different design components.

Black Bay Dark and S&G

If you prefer all-black watches, you should take a look at the Black Bay Dark. Its 41-mm stainless steel case and bracelet have a black coating. The luminous hands and hour markers make for a stark contrast and offer excellent readability regardless of lighting conditions. The white minute markers and the bezel's minute scale also stand out against the black background. A never-worn Black Bay Dark costs about 3,700 USD.

The two-tone Black Bay S&G is also popular and features in many promotional photos with retired English soccer player David Beckham. As an icon of fashion and masculinity, Beckham is the perfect brand ambassador for Tudor. The stainless steel Black Bay S&G is available with a two-tone metal bracelet or leather strap. Similar to other models in this line, it also comes with an additional textile strap. The in-house movement MT5612 with a date display, which is also found in the Black Bay Steel, powers these watches. Set aside around 4,400 USD for a new version with a stainless steel and gold bracelet.

Those with more extravagant tastes may enjoy the Heritage Black Bay P01. This isn't your average wristwatch. Its design comes from a diving watch prototype Tudor developed for the U.S. Navy in the 1960s. However, the public didn't get their first glimpse of this once-secret watch until the 2019 release of its remake, the P01. Defining details include a crown at 4 o'clock and bulging lugs with locking clamps – a feature unique to this timepiece alone. At 42 mm in diameter, this watch is also the largest three-hand Black Bay model. The P01 ref. 70150 has an official list price of 3,950 USD; you can find mint-condition models on Chrono24 for roughly 4,200 USD.
 

Black Bay 32, 36, and 41 With No Diving Bezel

Tudor also offers versions without diving bezels in the form of the Black Bay 32, 36, and 41. As their names imply, these timepieces are 32, 36, and 41 mm in diameter, respectively. In addition to stainless steel watches with a blue or black dial, the manufacturer also produces two-tone models known as the Black Bay S&G. These variants are available with a gold or black dial. No matter which version you choose, it will have a polished bezel similar to that of the Rolex Explorer. While S&G models only come on a stainless steel bracelet, the stainless steel editions come with your choice of a textile strap, leather strap, or stainless steel bracelet.

Prices for a new stainless steel Black Bay 32 sit around 2,200 USD. This model has a list price of 2,800 USD. Lady Gaga is a fan of the Black Bay 36 S&G, which costs about 3,400 USD in mint condition. Tudor's official list price for this watch is 4,050 USD. If you're interested in a 41-mm watch, the stainless steel ref. 79540 is sure to do the trick. This watch sells for between 1,900 and 2,600 USD.

The name Heritage Ranger makes it clear that this model is inspired by a historic watch – namely the Oyster Prince Ranger from the 1960s. The new Ranger's simple design is very similar to its historic predecessor, especially its dial. Arabic numerals are located at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock, while indices are used for the other hour markers. The arrow-shaped hour hand and the skinny second hand with a luminous rectangular box on its final third bring to mind the original model from the 1960s. Rolex aficionados will notice similarities to the Rolex Explorer, which should come as no surprise since Tudor – a Rolex sister company – uses numerous Rolex components. This includes the Oyster case, which explains the original watch's name: Oyster Prince Ranger.
 

A diameter of 41 mm sets the current Tudor Heritage Ranger apart from the historic watch and brings it up to modern standards. In terms of bands, you have the choice between a three-piece link bracelet, a brown leather strap, or a cuffed band with a leather underlay. Each variant also includes two textile straps. Due to its sporty and simple design, the Ranger is appropriate for almost any occasion and coordinates with almost any outfit. For these watches, Tudor decided on the proven ETA caliber 2824. Pre-owned models can be found in good condition for around 2,100 USD euros. If you'd prefer to buy a new watch, be sure to have at least 2,500 USD available.

The Colorful Chronograph: Tudor Heritage Chrono

The Heritage Chrono is a retro chronograph inspired by early Tudor Oysterdate Chronographs from the 1970s. A striking feature of the current model is its colorful dial that feels straight out of the 70s. The Heritage Chrono Blue feels especially fresh with its blue bezel, blue subdials, and a blue edge around the dial.

Tudor uses the automatic ETA caliber 2892 with a chronograph module for this watch. You can measure time periods up to 45 minutes with this movement using the subdial at 9 o'clock. The small seconds dial is located at 3 o'clock, and you can discern the date in a small window at 6 o'clock. Thanks to the bi-directional bezel with 12-hour graduation, you can also keep track of a second time zone. Prices for the Heritage Chrono Blue begin around 4,100 USD for watches in mint condition. Pre-owned pieces change hands for about 3,200 USD.

Tudor tool watches endeavor to be scientific instruments with modern designs. These so-called "tool watches" include the Pelagos and the North Flag, which have begun to feature in-house movements and are regarded as robust and reliable. The diving watch Pelagos is made of light and durable titanium and is water resistant to 500 m (50 bar, 1,640 ft). It is available with a black dial and bezel or a blue dial and bezel. The crown of the LHD ("Left Hand Drive") model is on the left side and is geared toward left-handed customers who like to wear watches on their right wrist.

Thanks to the helium escape valve, the Pelagos is also suitable for professional saturation diving. The helium escape valve prevents damage from excess pressure building up in the watch during decompression. The patented folding clasp on the titanium bracelet is ideal for divers since it automatically adjusts the bracelet's length to the size of the wetsuit. When the pressure increases underwater, the wetsuit is compressed and the band shortens. As pressure is released, the suit expands and the band lengthens. Every complete set also includes an additional rubber strap. A pre-owned Tudor Pelagos diving watch costs around 3,200 USD, while those in mint condition start at 3,600 USD.

The understated North Flag is inspired by the reliability of Tudor watches worn during the British North Greenland Expedition in the 1950s. The 40-mm stainless steel case is entirely satin-brushed and has an angular design, underlining its scientific nature. The double bezel made of stainless steel and ceramic integrates seamlessly with the design of this functional watch. The in-house movement MT5621 is certified as a chronometer, shows the date at 3 o'clock, and features a power reserve display at 9 o'clock. You can buy pre-owned models starting around 2,600 USD and never-worn models for 3,200 USD.

Motorsport is the inspiration for the Tudor Fastrider and Grantour tool watches. Unsurprisingly, the majority of these watches have a chronograph function. There is even a Grantour with a flyback function, which shortens the process for measuring time periods. The caliber 2892 with a flyback chronograph module is responsible for the precise timekeeping. Examples in mint condition sell for about 3,200 USD. If you can do without these convenient features, perhaps a Grantour Chrono with the ETA caliber 7753 is the right choice for you. You can buy one of these watches starting at 2,800 USD new. The Grandtour Date is a three-hand variant powered by the ETA caliber 2824 and is even more affordable. Models in mint condition cost about 2,200 USD.

With its yellow, red, or green dial, the Fastrider is one of the most eye-catching Tudor watches on the market. A matte-black ceramic bezel and satin-brushed case highlight this chronograph's technical appearance. The pushers and crown are coated in black to match the bezel. Similar to the Grantour Chrono, Tudor utilizes the automatic chronograph caliber 7753 in the Fastrider. This caliber has a power reserve of 46 hours and a date display at 4:30. Occasionally and with a bit of luck, you may find a pre-owned Fastrider in very good condition for less than 2,500 USD. Prices for new watches start around 3,400 USD. If you prefer the all-black Fastrider Black Shield model, plan to spend at least 3,300 USD for a pre-owned watch and 3,800 USD for a new timepiece.

In addition to numerous retro and sports watches, Tudor also offers classically elegant women's and men's watches that go especially well with a business suit or evening wear. The Style collection is made up of simple three-hand watches with designs reminiscent of traditional wristwatches from the 1950s through the 1970s. A majority of the watches are made of stainless steel, though there are also two-tone variants in stainless steel and yellow gold. For the bands, Tudor utilizes leather, stainless steel, and a combination of steel and gold in the two-tone version. The cases range from 28 mm to 41 mm in diameter, meaning there are watches suited for both men and women. Medium-sized models between 34 mm and 38 mm are also suitable as unisex watches. You can purchase a stainless steel Tudor Style in mint condition with a leather strap for as little as 1,800 USD. If you have your eye on a mint-condition two-tone model with a metal bracelet, you should set aside around 2,500 USD.

Tudor sells luxurious women's watches in their Glamour series. Top models boast 11 diamonds for the hour markers and a diamond-encrusted bezel. The 31-mm edition of this two-tone watch demands about 4,700 USD. Men's watches include the 39-mm Date-Day with a day display at 12 o'clock reminiscent of the Rolex Day-Date, and the 42-mm Double Date with a large date display beneath 12 o'clock and a small seconds dial at 6 o'clock. You can purchase the latter in mint condition starting at about 2,400 USD. On the other hand, a new Date-Day only costs 2,000 USD.

The Classic is yet another classically elegant Tudor collection. These watches range in size from 28 to 38 mm in diameter. Most have a metal bracelet, including the two-tone edition. Some versions pair a fluted yellow gold bezel with a stainless steel case. A new stainless steel Tudor Classic costs around 2,400 USD, whereas two-tone versions with diamond-studded dials sell for roughly 3,300 USD.

Tudor's history stretches all the way back to 1926. Rolex's founder Hans Wilsdorf was also the man behind this Genevan company. Wilsdorf's goal from the beginning was to manufacture reliable watches that were more affordable than comparable Rolex models. To achieve this, original Rolex parts, such as the Oyster case or Oyster bracelet, were used for many years. For their calibers, Tudor relied on less expensive alternatives from movement manufacturers like ETA, which still supplies Tudor with movements to this day. However, Tudor has also been using calibers developed in-house and manufactured in Genevan production halls since 2015.

The brand name Tudor is taken from the eponymous royal family, which sat on the English throne from 1485 to 1603. The logo is the Tudor rose from the family crest, which was later framed by a shield. Together they symbolize the unity of strength and aesthetics. Today, the shield and the inscription "Tudor Geneve" embellish the dials of both women's and men's watches.