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Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V/110A-B126 Good Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Rp. 323,351,465
Professional dealer
15
AE
Rolex Submariner Date 116610LN New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Men's Watch 116610LN-0001
Rp. 237,559,754
Free shipping
Professional dealer
635
US
Rolex Submariner Date 116610LN Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date Reference #: 116610LN
Rp. 187,136,786
Professional dealer
89
US
Bulgari Octo 103431 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Bulgari OCTO FINISSIMO NEW Ulta-thin Steel Blue Diat / AUTO
Rp. 160,536,629
Professional dealer
15
AE
TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 CAW211A Unworn Steel 39mm Automatic
TOP
TAG Heuer Monaco Steve McQueen Come Nos
Rp. 227,194,451
Professional dealer
155
IT
Seiko Grand Seiko 5722-9991 Good Steel 36mm Manual winding Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko Grand Seiko
Rp. 19,900,000
Private Seller
ID
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak E12869 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatik Datum Edelstahl Herrenuhr...
Rp. 173,891,138

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Omega 2272 -6 Very good Steel 38mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Huge Vintage 38 mm Honeycomb Dial 1952 Ref. 2272
Rp. 58,546,262
Professional dealer
142
DE
Vacheron Constantin Good White gold 23mm Manual winding
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Art Deco White Gold Vintage Tank / Gondolo
Rp. 67,725,861
Professional dealer
71
CH
Breguet Classique Complications 3657pt/12/9v6 Very good Platinum 39mm Manual winding
TOP
Breguet Classique Complications 3657PT
Rp. 856,348,316
Professional dealer
279
CZ
Rolex GMT-Master II 116713LN New Gold/Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II Black Men's Watch 116713LN-0001
Rp. 267,264,005
Free shipping
Professional dealer
635
US
Seiko Monster SRP309K1 Good Steel 42mm Automatic Indonesia, INDONESIA
Seiko Monster SRP309K1 RARE ORANGE MONSTER GEN 2 BRACELET
Rp. 9,653,882
Private Seller
ID
Mido Commander 8299 Good Steel 38mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Mido Vintage Mido Commander day date 8299 twotone swiss made...
Rp. 10,381,636
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Daytona 116519 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Rolex Daytona
Rp. 1,039,648,812
Private Seller
ID
Seiko SNKL23K1 Unworn Steel Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Timur
Seiko 5 Sports SNKL23K1
Rp. 1,850,000
Private Seller
ID
Seiko SRPE39K1 Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Prospex KING TURTLE MANTARAY, SAVE THE OCEAN SPECIAL...
Rp. 6,089,372
Private Seller
ID
Seiko SRPE33K1 Unworn Steel 43.8mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Prospex SPECIAL EDITION KING SAMURAI MANTARAY SRPE33K1...
Rp. 6,237,893
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5 6106 8660 Good Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, INDONESIA
Seiko 5 ACTUS 6106 8660 EMERALD GREEN SUNBURST VINTAGE RARE
Rp. 2,673,383
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Grand Seiko SBGJ249G or SBGJ249 Unworn Steel 39.5mm Automatic Indonesia, semarang
Seiko Grand Seiko
Rp. 89,000,000
Private Seller
ID
Welder K24 3002 Very good Steel 50mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Welder K24 3002
Rp. 11,139,094
Private Seller
ID
Seiko SRPG57K1 Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko SRPG57K1 SRPG57 Save The ocean ANTARTICA. PENGUIN...
Rp. 6,237,893
Private Seller
ID
Seiko SRPF79K1 Unworn Steel 43.8mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Prospex STO KING SAMURAI DARKMANTARAY Special Edition...
Rp. 6,237,893
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Datejust 16233 Very good Gold/Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Selatan
Rolex Datejust
Rp. 97,281,425
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5 Sports SRP435K1 Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko 5 Sports GMT 50th Anniversary Special Edition, NOS -...
Rp. 8,242,930
Private Seller
ID
Tudor Prince Oysterdate 7025/4 Very good 38mm Automatic Indonesia, Tangerang Selatan
Tudor Prince Oysterdate 7025/4 Jumbo 38mm Grey Dial
Rp. 33,417,283
Private Seller
ID
Zenith Good Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Selatan
Zenith Autosport hi-beat cal 2562PC
Rp. 13,000,000
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Grand Seiko J14070 Fair Gold/Steel 34.5mm Manual winding Indonesia, Jakarta Selatan
Seiko Grand Seiko
Rp. 33,240,296
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Ssa174k1 Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Timur
Seiko Superior Bullhead Anniversary 50th SSA174k1
Rp. 5,450,000
Private Seller
ID
Corum 73.108.55 Very good 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Tangerang Selatan
Corum Reserve de Marche 73.109.55 18K Rose Gold
Rp. 41,585,952
Private Seller
ID
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN Very good Steel Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Rolex GMT-Master II Black Panther
Rp. 222,781,888
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5 Sports 6619-7070 Good Steel 35mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko Vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic with box rare seiko japan
Rp. 5,569,547
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Prospex SRP639K1 Unworn Steel 50mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko Prospex SRP639K1 Automatic Divers Baby Tuna
Rp. 5,505,096
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Good Steel 44mmmm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Barat
Seiko Diver 6105 8119 Vintage RARE
Rp. 25,991,220
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Grand Seiko 5645-7000 Fair Steel 35mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko Grand Seiko
Rp. 12,600,000
Private Seller
ID
Orient Star G914560G Very good Gold/Steel 39mm Automatic Indonesia, SURABAYA
Orient Three Stars
Rp. 1,262,431
Private Seller
ID
Oris Divers Titan 01 643 7638 7454-07 4 24 34TEB Very good Titanium Automatic Indonesia, MANADO
Oris Divers Titan 1000m with small sub second (Rare Item)
Rp. 33,000,000
Private Seller
ID
Longines Admiral 2303-2 Good Steel 38mm Manual winding Indonesia, Jakarta
Longines Admiral HF 2303-2 (Hi-beat Vintage)
Rp. 10,396,488
Private Seller
ID
Timex Timex 21 Jewels (Marlin) Good Gold/Steel 36mm Manual winding Indonesia, SURABAYA
Timex 21 jewels Made in Great Britain Vintage 1970
Rp. 1,262,431
Private Seller
ID
Omega Constellation 168017 Good Steel 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Omega Constellation
Rp. 13,300,000
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 6139-7100 Good Steel 40mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko 6139-7100 Chronograph "Bobby Deerfield"
Rp. 8,822,163
Private Seller
ID
Seiko King 5626-7240 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko King Seiko Vanac 5626-7240 Red
Rp. 11,881,701
Private Seller
ID
Bulgari Diagono LC35G Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Tangerang Selatan
Bulgari Bvlgari Diagono LC35G 18K Yellow Gold Automatic
Rp. 64,606,748
Private Seller
ID
U-Boat Thousands of Feet 1682 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
U-Boat Thousands of Feet 1682 AS 1R Red
Rp. 29,704,252
Private Seller
ID
Orient 469603-6H PR Very good Gold/Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, SURABAYA
Orient 469603-6H PR
Rp. 787,163
Private Seller
ID
U-Boat Thousands of Feet 1682 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
U-Boat U Boat Thousands of Feet
Rp. 56,438,078
Private Seller
ID
Seiko King 5626-7040 Good 35mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko King Seiko
Rp. 13,100,000
Private Seller
ID
Enicar 8000401 Fair Gold/Steel 30mm Manual winding Indonesia, Bandung
Enicar Revelation GP - Rare item
Rp. 3,297,172
Private Seller
ID
Orient EUAE-C0CS Good Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Orient Multi-Year Calendar Rainbow, Ultra Rare Item
Rp. 4,455,638
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Grand Seiko SBGR097 Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic Indonesia, 12310
Seiko Grand Seiko SBGR097 - EXTREMELY RARE
Rp. 73,110,147
Private Seller
ID
Omega Seamaster 166.003 Fair Steel 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Selatan
Omega Seamaster
Rp. 11,132,528
Private Seller
ID
Orient G904588 Good Steel 44mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Orient King Diver Vintage 1965
Rp. 2,747,643
Private Seller
ID
Seiko King 4502-8010 Good Steel 36.5mm Manual winding Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko King Seiko
Rp. 11,300,000
Private Seller
ID
Orient Good Steel 43mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Orient Extremely rare Vintage Orient King Diver circa 1970s...
Rp. 22,278,189
Private Seller
ID
Omega Genève 166.0174 Good Yellow gold 36.5mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Omega Rare Vintage Omega Geneve Burgundy / Cherry dial circa 1975
Rp. 12,995,610
Private Seller
ID
Citizen 9-821173K Unworn 35mm Automatic Indonesia, SURABAYA
Citizen Eagle
Rp. 876,275
Private Seller
ID
Piaget Polo S Polo Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Piaget Polo S Chronograph Blue
Rp. 185,651,574
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5146-5001 Good Steel 38mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko Presmatic 5146-5001 Hi-Beat
Rp. 3,713,031
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Datejust 1601 Very good Gold/Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Tangerang Selatan
Rolex Datejust 1601 Circa 1960 Nice Condition
Rp. 59,408,504
Private Seller
ID
Omega Seamaster 14770 Fair Steel 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Omega Seamaster
Rp. 9,944,126
Private Seller
ID
Orient 904505 Good Steel 44mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Orient Cal. 42970 King Diver 1970 Vintage
Rp. 2,673,383
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Presage SSA409J1 Unworn Steel Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko Presage Limited Edition
Rp. 7,871,627
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Presage SSA409J1 Unworn Steel 40.5mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Presage Cocktail HONEYCOMB SSA409J1 SSA409 Limited...
Rp. 7,723,105
Private Seller
ID
Frederique Constant Runabout Chronograph FC392RM6B4 Good Rose gold 43mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Frederique Constant Runabout Chronograph
Rp. 41,585,952
Private Seller
ID
Zenith 03.2410.4010/21.C722 Good Steel 42mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Zenith El Primero 410
Rp. 106,192,700
Private Seller
ID

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.