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Corum Admiral's Cup (submodel) Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral’s Cup
Rp. 52,972,316
Verified Dealer
CH
Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic H32455785 New Steel 37mm Automatic
TOP
Hamilton H32455785
Rp. 7,300,730
Verified Dealer
19
HK
Hamilton Khaki Navy Pioneer H78465553 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Hamilton H78465553 Khaki Navy Pioneer
Rp. 10,661,920
Verified Dealer
19
HK
Hamilton Thin-O-Matic Hamilton H38415131 New Steel 38mm Automatic
TOP
Hamilton H38415131
Rp. 9,013,246
Verified Dealer
19
HK
Rolex Explorer 214270 New Steel 39mm Automatic
Rolex Explorer 39mm 2020 NEW LC 100
Rp. 120,321,120
Verified Dealer
35
DE
Seiko 5 Snkk43k1 Unworn Steel 38mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko 'Nautilus' Gold Steel Two Tones SNKK43 NOS - Very Rare Item
Rp. 7,302,590
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Day-Date 36 128238 New Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 36 Diamond-Paved 128238 NEW 2020
Rp. 878,052,288
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
34
US
Chaumet Liens W23871-02A New Rose gold 33mm Automatic
TOP
Chaumet Liens 33, new, closing down sale - off. price: 18.700 CHF
Rp. 105,929,504
Verified Dealer
44
CH
Ball Engineer Master II Diver DM3020A-SAJ-BK Good Steel 42mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Ball Engineer Master II Diver
Rp. 18,000,000
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5 SNXJ92 Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko 5 SNXJ92K1 DateJust Fluted Bezel President 7S26 Automati...
Rp. 4,317,162
Private Seller
ID
Zenith Defy 95.9000.670/78.R782 Very good Titanium 41mm Automatic Indonesia, 12780
Zenith Defy Classic
Rp. 65,553,428
Private Seller
ID
Tudor Prince Date 94510 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, PEKANBARU
Tudor OYSTER PRINCE 94510 DATE DAY GOLD DIAL
Rp. 22,829,740
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Datejust 16233 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic
Rolex Datejust 16233
Rp. 91,465,312
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
791
US
Omega Constellation 167.005 Good Steel Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta barat
Omega Constellation vintage omega constellation 167.005
Rp. 22,990,718
Private Seller
ID
Vacheron Constantin Squarre Vintage Very good Red gold 28mm Manual winding
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Squarre 18K Gold Rosé Rotgold Pink Manual
Rp. 56,064,180
Verified Dealer
487
DE
Omega Constellation 168.004 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta barat
Omega Constellation omega constellation mint condition
Rp. 23,883,420
Private Seller
ID
Seiko King 5626 Good Gold/Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, BOGOR
Seiko 5626-7070 Hi-Beat Automatic "Gold Capped Edition"
Rp. 8,789,713
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Superior SRP510K1 Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko SRP510 STARGATE II Superior Gold Black Limited Diver...
Rp. 5,634,262
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea 116660 Very good Ceramic 44mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea Steel 116660 Black 44mm
Rp. 138,280,912
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
34
US
Longines Good Steel 31mm Manual winding Indonesia, jakarta
Longines 12.68Z Breguet style
Rp. 14,634,449
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5 Sports SRP785K1 Unworn Steel 44mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko 5 Mountain Fuji Limited Edition with Football Star Sign
Rp. 5,839,145
Private Seller
ID
Chaumet Liens W23870-02A New Rose gold 33mm Automatic
TOP
Chaumet Liens 33, new, closing down sale - off. pr.: 14.410 CHF
Rp. 83,227,080
Verified Dealer
44
CH
Seiko Superior SRP451K1 Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko SRP451K1 Blue Monster Limited Edition Superior 4R35...
Rp. 5,634,262
Private Seller
ID
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 221.032 Very good Rose gold 36mm Manual winding
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up Down 221.032 Watch with Leather...
Rp. 199,028,496
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
560
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Very good Yellow gold 34,5mm
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic 14486BA
Rp. 310,039,712
Verified Dealer
77
IT
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN NEW 2019
Rp. 186,589,216
Verified Dealer
35
US
Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu 415.EX.7179.VR.MXM19 New Ceramic 45mm Automatic
TOP
Hublot Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu Ceramic Blue 45 mm
Rp. 279,517,696
Verified Dealer
827
UK
Breitling Navitimer U13324211B1X1 New Gold/Steel 41mm Automatic
Breitling NAVITIMER 1 CHRONOGRAPH 41
Rp. 76,401,504
Verified Dealer
366
IT
Seiko Premier Kinetic Direct Drive SRX017P1 Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Premier SRX017P1 Kinetic Drive 5D88 Automatic Watch SRX017
Rp. 11,268,525
Private Seller
ID
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Geographic 146.8.83/1 Very good Steel 41mm Automatic
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Geographic Stainless...
Rp. 80,387,032
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
429
US
Seiko 5 Sports SRP783 Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko SRP783K1 Limited Edition 5 Sports Mt. Fuji 4R36 05C0...
Rp. 4,375,700
Private Seller
ID
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (submodel) Q3832420 Unworn Rose gold 47mm Automatic
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo Face/ An Lager/In Stock
Rp. 203,565,056
Verified Dealer
329
CH
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic PAM 438 Very good Ceramic 44mm Automatic
TOP
Panerai Tuttonero PAM 438 Watch with Ceramic Bracelet and...
Rp. 166,100,992
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
560
US
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 15400 New Steel 41mm Automatic
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak - Black dlc - Limited Edition /10
Rp. 511,276,416
Verified Dealer
43
IT
Rolex Yacht-Master 37 268621 New Gold/Steel 37mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master 37mm UNWORN 2019 Two-Tone 268621
Rp. 197,565,056
Verified Dealer
35
US
Seiko Premier Automatic SKZ323K Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Premier SKZ323K1 White Stargate Diver's Automatic 200m...
Rp. 5,707,435
Private Seller
ID
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Q1538420 or 1538420 New Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph Stainless Steel 40mm
Rp. 125,140,392
Verified Dealer
827
UK
Cartier Roadster W62020X6 Very good Steel Automatic
TOP
Cartier Custom Diamond Roadster Leather Band W62020x6
Rp. 160,964,304
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
445
US
Hamilton Khaki Pilot H64715535 New Steel 46mm Automatic
TOP
Hamilton Khaki Pilot
Rp. 10,441,752
Verified Dealer
40
GR
Corum Admiral's Cup (submodel) 694550371CG12 New Rose gold 44mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral´s Cup Regatta 18k Rose Gold Edición Limitada 600...
Rp. 223,292,864
Verified Dealer
68
ES
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre HEUER 01 Car201Z.FT6046 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph - CAR201Z.FT6046
Rp. 42,837,960
Verified Dealer
40
AU
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM 111 Good Steel 44mm Manual winding
TOP
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM 111 Watch with Leather Bracelet and...
Rp. 68,781,912
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
560
US
Franck Muller Color Dreams 7851CH Very good Red gold 35.5mm Automatic
TOP
Franck Muller Color Dreams 18k Gold Automatik Herrenuhr Ref....
Rp. 153,574,096
Verified Dealer
2343
DE
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR Very good Steel 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II BATMAN 2019 Jubilee 126710BLNR
Rp. 241,468,400
Verified Dealer
35
US
IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Racer IW378509 Very good Steel 45mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta barat
TOP
IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Racer
Rp. 79,000,000
Private Seller
ID
IWC Big Pilot IW501005 New Bronze 46.2mm Automatic
TOP
IWC Big Pilot’s Heritage
Rp. 163,855,200
Verified Dealer
827
UK
Rolex Explorer II 16570 Good Steel 40mm Automatic
Rolex Explorer II 16570
Rp. 100,977,696
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
445
US
Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec 102337 Very good Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph GMT 102337
Rp. 68,273,000
Verified Dealer
744
NL
Corum Admiral's Cup Legend 42 984.101.20/F373 AB12 New Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral's Legend 42 Chronograph
Rp. 61,847,304
Verified Dealer
68
ES
NOMOS Tangente Neomatik 176 Very good Steel 35mm Automatic
NOMOS - Neomatik - Ref. 176 - 2016
Rp. 36,144,528
Verified Dealer
388
DE
Corum Bubble 082.311.98/0062 OP01 Very good Steel 48mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Bubble Optical Art 082.311.98/0062 OP01 Watch with...
Rp. 23,502,926
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
560
US
Omega Seamaster Very good Steel 34mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Seamaster Vintage Green dial face mens steel automatic...
Rp. 23,536,650
Verified Dealer
731
UK
Rolex Day-Date 36 18238 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
Rolex Day-Date 36 President 4ct Diamond Bezel & MOP Diamond Dial
Rp. 234,151,184
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
US
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba H82365941 New Steel 40mm Automatic
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto
Rp. 8,835,330
Verified Dealer
6140
DE
IWC Portuguese Hand-Wound IW510212 New Steel 43.2mm Manual winding
TOP
IWC Portugieser Hand Wound Eight Days 150 Years
Rp. 147,790,960
Verified Dealer
827
UK
Rado R33930355 Very good Steel 35mm Automatic
TOP
Rado Golden Horse
Rp. 10,229,480
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
41
US
Omega Genève Geneve Very good Yellow gold 33mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Geneve vintage 14K Gold 1969
Rp. 19,261,016
Verified Dealer
75
HU
Corum Admiral's Cup Legend 42 395.101.22.F373.WB12 New Steel 42 mmmm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral Legend 42
Rp. 52,208,764
Verified Dealer
68
ES
Longines Very good White gold 32mm Automatic
TOP
Longines 18k White Gold Midsize Diamond Dress Watch, c.1960s...
Rp. 46,830,236
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
624
US
Piaget Altiplano P10522 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Piaget Altiplano P10522 Watch with Leather Bracelet and 18k...
Rp. 146,344,496
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
560
US
Meistersinger Singular MM302 Unworn Steel 43mm Automatic
Meistersinger Singular Chronograph
Rp. 24,016,030
Verified Dealer
1013
NL
Tudor Style 12703-0009 New Steel 41mm Automatic
Tudor Style
Rp. 37,734,888
Verified Dealer
2892
DE
Jaquet-Droz Grande Seconde SW J029530202 New Steel 45mm Automatic
TOP
Jaquet-Droz SW Chronograph Grey
Rp. 191,164,400
Free shipping
Verified Dealer
398
LV
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date 1-37-01-05-02-35 or 37-01-05-02-35 New Steel 42mm Automatic
TOP
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date
Rp. 158,232,720
Verified Dealer
827
UK
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Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.


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