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Patek Philippe World Time 5231J-001 New Yellow gold 38.5mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné Enamel American/Europe dial
Rp. 1,888,740,414
Free shipping
Professional dealer
22
UK
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Moonphase 30493445203001 New Ceramic 44.2mm Automatic
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Co-Axial Master Chronometer Blue...
Rp. 169,169,391
Professional dealer
1194
NL
Panerai PAM01036 or PAM1036 New Titanium 44mm Automatic
TOP
Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa GMT 44mm
Rp. 153,058,021
Free shipping
Professional dealer
71
AU
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R-001 Very good Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus Rose Gold Black Dial Chronograph Watch...
Rp. 3,478,310,457
Free shipping
Professional dealer
342
US
Franck Muller Casablanca 7880 Very good Rose gold 47mm Automatic
TOP
Franck Muller Casablanca Chronographe 7880 18k pink gold
Rp. 295,375,128
Professional dealer
16
MC
Seiko SNKL23K1 Unworn Steel 38mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko 5 Sport Automatic SNKL23 SNKL23K1 Black Dial
Rp. 2,022,872
Private Seller
ID
IWC Pilot Chronograph IW377726 New Steel 43mm Automatic
TOP
IWC Racing Green Chronograph Edition Watch Pilot - LIMITED...
Rp. 146,774,586
Professional dealer
532
DE
Omega Speedmaster Reduced 175.0032 Good Steel 39mm Automatic Indonesia, Tangerang Selatan
Omega Speedmaster Reduced
Rp. 29,073,015
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Oyster Precision 6694 Good Steel 34mm Manual winding Indonesia, Jakarta
Rolex Oyster Precision
Rp. 26,726,974
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Oyster Precision 6694 Good Steel 34mm Manual winding Indonesia, Jakarta
Rolex Oyster Precision
Rp. 30,432,589
Private Seller
ID
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 311.12.42.30.01.001 Very good Steel 42mm Manual winding
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Anniversary Speedy Tuesday...
Rp. 178,165,401
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1464
US
Seiko SNKL23K1 Unworn Steel Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Timur
Seiko 5 Sports SNKL23K1
Rp. 1,850,000
Private Seller
ID
Seiko SRPF79K1 Unworn Steel 43.8mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Prospex STO KING SAMURAI SPECIAL EDITION DARK MANTARAY...
Rp. 6,560,065
Private Seller
ID
Welder K24 3002 Very good Steel 50mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Welder K24 3002
Rp. 11,181,929
Private Seller
ID
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 33093/3 Very good White gold 31.5mm Manual winding
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 18K Weissgold Handaufzug...
Rp. 95,773,148

Sold by Chrono24

DE
Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Good Steel Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Barat
Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Beautiful Condition GOOD DEAL..
Rp. 178,910,863
Private Seller
ID
Zenith Good Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Selatan
Zenith Autosport hi-beat cal 2562PC
Rp. 13,000,000
Private Seller
ID
Seiko SRPE39K1 Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Prospex KING TURTLE MANTARAY, SAVE THE OCEAN SPECIAL...
Rp. 6,410,973
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Presage SSA409J1 Unworn Steel 40.5mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Presage HONEYCOMB SSA409J1 SSA409 ,LIMITED EDITION...
Rp. 7,901,896
Private Seller
ID
Mido Commander 5079 Good Gold/Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Mido Commander Ocean Star datoday - double micron GP, collecto...
Rp. 4,964,776
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5 6106 8660 Good Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, INDONESIA
Seiko 5 ACTUS 6106 8660 EMERALD GREEN SUNBURST VINTAGE RARE
Rp. 2,683,663
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Datejust 16233 Very good Gold/Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Selatan
Rolex Datejust
Rp. 103,619,208
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 15008 Good Yellow gold 36mm Manual winding Indonesia, Tangerang
Seiko Goldfeather 15008
Rp. 5,500,000
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Datejust 1601 Good Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Rolex Datejust
Rp. 53,973,092
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Monster SRPF35K1 Unworn Steel Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Monster yellow bumblebee limited asia market SRPF35K1 ...
Rp. 5,814,603
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Good Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, INDONESIA
Seiko SUPER RARE RED ALPINIST BLACK DIAL SCVF005 4S15
Rp. 16,772,893
Private Seller
ID
Breitling Superocean Heritage A37320 Very good Steel 38mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Breitling Superocean Heritage
Rp. 38,416,668
Private Seller
ID
Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon GMT DG1016A Very good Steel 40mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Ball GMT Engineer Hydrocarbon
Rp. 28,700,000
Private Seller
ID
Citizen 9-821173K Unworn 35mm Automatic Indonesia, SURABAYA
Citizen Eagle
Rp. 894,554
Private Seller
ID
Omega Constellation 168017 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Omega Constellation
Rp. 22,400,000
Private Seller
ID
Patek Philippe Calatrava 3520D Good White gold 32mm Manual winding Indonesia, Tangerang Selatan
Patek Philippe Calatrava 3520D White Gold Beyer Signed Dial
Rp. 149,077,477
Private Seller
ID
Enicar 8000401 Fair Gold/Steel 30mm Manual winding Indonesia, Bandung
Enicar Revelation GP - Rare item
Rp. 3,727,310
Private Seller
ID
Tudor Prince Oysterdate 7990/4 Very good Steel 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Barat
Tudor Prince Oysterdate PERFECT CONDITION - GOOD DEAL
Rp. 28,178,461
Private Seller
ID
U-Boat Thousands of Feet 1682 Very good Steel 43mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
U-Boat U Boat Thousands of Feet
Rp. 56,655,107
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Good Steel 44mmmm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Barat
Seiko Diver 6105 8119 Vintage RARE
Rp. 26,091,168
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5 SNKN60K1 Unworn Steel 43mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko 5 Two Tone SNKN60K1 - Brown
Rp. 2,685,228
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Grand Seiko 5646-7000 Very good Steel 35mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko Grand Seiko GS56
Rp. 14,983,575
Private Seller
ID
Zenith Defy 95.9000.670/78.R584 Very good Titanium Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Zenith Defy Skeleton Titanium
Rp. 84,967,751
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Prospex SRPE39K1 Unworn Steel Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Timur
Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean SRPE39K1
Rp. 6,450,000
Private Seller
ID
TAG Heuer Professional Submariner 844/5 Very good Steel Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Barat
TAG Heuer 1000 Automatic Vintage 844/5 Monnin Outstanding...
Rp. 28,800,000
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Grand Seiko SBGR097G Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko Grand Seiko
Rp. 75,961,199
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 6117-6400 Good Steel 40mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Seiko World Time
Rp. 7,697,655
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date 15210 Good Steel 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date
Rp. 53,525,553
Private Seller
ID
Orient EM2W-C0 Unworn Steel 38mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Orient Chronoace Nonscracth, Blue - NOS
Rp. 5,218,234
Private Seller
ID
Omega Seamaster C2577-12SC Very good Gold/Steel 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Omega Seamaster Automatic Bumper
Rp. 15,000,000
Private Seller
ID
Omega 166.0310 Very good Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Omega Dynamic
Rp. 21,893,563
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Cellini 3805 Good White gold 31mm Manual winding Indonesia, Jakarta
Rolex Cellini
Rp. 52,700,000
Private Seller
ID
Orient EUAE-C0CS Good Steel 36mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Orient Multi-Year Calendar Rainbow, Ultra Rare Item
Rp. 6,440,791
Private Seller
ID
Vulcain NO. 58 Good 28mm Manual winding Indonesia, Tangerang
Vulcain Super
Rp. 4,500,000
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Spirit 4R35 - 00L0 Very good Steel 45mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Spirit SCVE015 Limited edition 300 Pcs, Ultra rare item
Rp. 6,619,702
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 2699/3500 Unworn Steel 45mm Automatic Indonesia, South Tangerang
Seiko SRPB01K1
Rp. 19,188,190
Private Seller
ID
Seiko King 5621-7000 Good Steel 35mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Selatan
Seiko King Seiko
Rp. 10,418,686
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Superior SRP451K1 Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko SRP451K1 Blue Monster Limited Edition Superior 4R35...
Rp. 5,740,057
Private Seller
ID
Ernest Borel 4800156 Good Steel 38mm Manual winding Indonesia, Bandung
Ernest Borel Conquistador Alarm by Synchron
Rp. 8,274,627
Private Seller
ID
Omega Seamaster 166.0209 Very good Gold/Steel 34mm Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta
Omega Seamaster
Rp. 17,305,000
Private Seller
ID
Rolex Datejust 16234 Fair Steel Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Rolex Datejust 36mm
Rp. 116,292,061
Private Seller
ID
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN Very good Steel Automatic Indonesia, Medan
Rolex GMT-Master II Black Panther
Rp. 223,638,579
Private Seller
ID
Seiko 5 Sports 6139 8001 Good Steel 40mm Automatic Indonesia, INDONESIA
Seiko 5 Sports Speedtimer VINTAGE RARE 6139 8001 JDM KANJI...
Rp. 8,200,081
Private Seller
ID
Seiko SKZ323K Unworn Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Seiko Automatic SKZ323K1 STARGATE I 1 White 7S36-04P0 Watch
Rp. 5,948,786
Private Seller
ID
Orient FER2L002B0 Unworn Steel 42mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Orient Multi Year Calendar ER2L-C0-A
Rp. 2,685,228
Private Seller
ID
Orient 469603-6H PR Very good Gold/Steel 37mm Automatic Indonesia, SURABAYA
Orient 469603-6H PR
Rp. 1,192,739
Private Seller
ID
Seiko Presage SPB085J1 Unworn Steel Automatic Indonesia, Jakarta Timur
Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan SPB085J1 limited edition
Rp. 29,000,000
Private Seller
ID
Heuer 5408 Good Steel 34.5mm Manual winding Indonesia, Jakarta Barat
Heuer Big Eyes
Rp. 65,000,000
Private Seller
ID
Orient ER02-D6-B Good Steel 47mm Automatic Indonesia, Bandung
Orient Rotation Disk Automatic, Black - rare item
Rp. 2,474,934
Private Seller
ID

Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.


This page contains information about:


Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.

However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.

Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.

Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.


Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.

Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.


Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.

Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.

The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.


Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.

A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.

The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.

Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.

Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.

Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.

Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.

Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.

The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.

One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.