Tudor Black Bay S&G

Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Tudor struck gold with the launch of the first Heritage Black Bay model at Baselworld 2011. This stainless steel watch with a red bezel was the talk of that year's trade fair. Tudor introduced six new two-tone versions, known as the Black Bay S&G, in 2017. While many associate two-tone watches with the 1980s, this style has made something of a comeback in recent years. Each of these three-hand watches is powered by the in-house caliber MT5612 with a date display.

Tudor announced the addition of a spectacular two-subdial chronograph to the Black Bay collection at Baselworld 2019. This watch's golden subdials contrast beautifully with the rest of its black dial. The manufacturer equips this model with the in-house caliber MT5813, a movement they developed in cooperation with Breitling.

Each Heritage Black Bay S&G diving watch comes with a 41-mm case that is water-resistant to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft). Inside the case, you'll find in-house calibers with a 70-hour power reserve. Golden components include bracelet links, crowns, and push-pieces.

The S&G series is also home to watches without a diving bezel. These models – the Black Bay S&G 32, 36, and 41 – have a lower depth rating of 150 m (15 bar, 492 ft). The number in the different model names refers to that version's case size. That means there are plenty of options for men and women alike.

Perhaps the most remarkable watch in the series is the Black Bay Chrono S&G. This unique two-subdial chronograph is available on three different bands: a stainless steel and gold bracelet, a brown leather strap with removable cuff, and a black textile strap.

The ref. 79363N-0001 comes on a metal bracelet. It features a black dial with applied yellow gold indices. SuperLuminova fills both the indices and yellow gold hands, guaranteeing optimal readability under all lighting conditions. Other golden dial accents include the minute track, subdials, and various inscriptions. The bezel, crown, pushers, !{tachymeter,tachymeter scale}, and Oyster bracelet's middle links are also yellow gold.

The In-House Caliber MT5813

The in-house caliber MT5813 serves as this chronograph's beating heart. Based on the Breitling caliber B01, Tudor outfits this chronometer-certified movement with their own silicon balance spring, among other components. There are central hands for the hours, minutes, and chronograph seconds, as well as a small seconds at 9 and 45-minute counter at 3 o'clock. Finally, the chronograph uses vertical instead of horizontal coupling, resulting in less wear on the chronograph mechanism.

If you're interested in this timepiece, be prepared to spend around 5,800 USD on Chrono24. The same watch has an official list price of 6,510 euros (approx. 7,100 USD). Tudor mounts the ref. 79363N-0002 on a brown leather strap with a removable cuff. This watch demands about 4,900 USD new and 4,800 USD pre-owned. The third and final option, the ref. 79363N-0003 is worn on a black textile strap. It costs some 5,900 USD in mint condition. Tudor lists both the 79363N-0002 and 79363N-0003 for 5,390 euros (approx. 5,900 USD).

Three-hand Black Bay S&G watches come with your choice of a black or champagne dial. Both dial variants are available on a two-tone bracelet, leather strap, or textile strap. For example, the ref. 79733N-0008 combines a black dial with a three-piece link Oyster bracelet with yellow gold middle links. Applied dot and bar indices mark the hours, along with a triangle at 12 o'clock. Tudor crafts the hands and indices out of yellow gold and then fills them with white SuperLuminova.

The unidirectional rotatable bezel is also yellow gold and has a matte black inlay made of anodized aluminum with a golden 60-minute scale. A black lacquer Tudor rose adorns the gold crown, which sits on a black anodized aluminum case tube. The automatic, chronometer-certified in-house caliber MT5612 powers this timepiece. It has central hour, minute, and second hands, as well as a date display at 3 o'clock.

This particular model sells for around 4,300 USD new and 3,600 USD pre-owned. If you'd prefer a leather strap, you should turn to the ref. 79733N-0007. This watch changes hands for roughly 3,400 USD and has an official list price of 3,720 euros (approx. 4,000 USD). The Tudor Black Bay S&G also looks good on a brown textile strap, as evidenced by the ref. 79733N-0005. While it shares the leather edition's list price, you can purchase a never-worn version for about 3,800 USD on Chrono24.

The Black Bay S&G with a champagne dial bears the reference number M79733N-0004 and comes on a two-tone Oyster bracelet. Be sure to have some 4,100 USD on hand to call this timepiece your own. Prices for pre-owned models fall around 4,000 USD. Watches on a textile or leather strap have a list price of 3,720 euros (approx. 4,000 USD); however, you can find mint-condition pieces for about 3,500 USD.

The In-House Caliber MT5612

Introduced in 2015, the caliber MT5612 boasts a 70-hour power reserve and balance frequency of 28,800 alterations per hour (A/h). Thanks to its silicon balance spring, this movement is also protected against strong magnetic fields. Tudor has had the MT5612 certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), a testament to its impressive precision.

If you can do without a diving bezel and high water resistance, you may prefer one of the Black Bay 32, 36, or 41 models. Lady Gaga is a personal fan of the 36-mm ref. 79503-0002 with a champagne dial. Its bezel, crown, and the two middle links of its Jubilee bracelet are all made of yellow gold. Unlike the diving watches, these versions use the caliber 2824 from Swiss movement manufacturer ETA. Tudor modifies the movement to their specifications in-house.

You can purchase a never-worn watch for about 3,400 USD. Tudor lists the same watch for 3,820 euros (approx. 4,200 USD). Those who enjoy black dials should take a closer look at the ref. 79503-0001. This version is slightly less expensive despite having the same technology and list price as the 79503-0002. Mint-condition pieces demand roughly 3,300 USD.