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Patek Philippe Calatrava: Pure Understatement

The Calatrava is the flagship model of world-famous watch manufacturer Patek Philippe. It is also one of the most coveted dress watches in the world. Its classic design is elegant, timeless, and minimalist. It also makes a great investment.

By Chrono24

Bauhaus-Inspired Elegance Since 1932

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is an icon in the watch industry. Few dress watches are as coveted and popular. It has been the perfect companion for formal occasions since its introduction in 1932. And yet, the timepiece's versatility is undeniable, and many people choose the Calatrava as their daily wearer.

The understated design of the Calatrava was inspired by the Bauhaus, a German school of design from the early 20th century that continues to influence modern art movements to this day. The watch's lines are clean and simple, its dial tidy and harmonious. While the Calatrava may represent the quintessential classic dress watch today, it was way ahead of its time back in the 1930s. It also has a longer history than most other watches on the market. Paired with the prestige of the Patek Philippe brand, this makes the Calatrava a true industry icon and the dream watch of many enthusiasts and collectors.

The current Calatrava collection offers a selection of women's watches and men's watches, all equipped with in-house movements. In terms of case materials, Patek Philippe usually utilizes platinum and rose, white, or yellow gold. Women's models are sometimes lavishly set with diamonds and come with ornate dials. The Calatrava has been in production for some 90 years, which means vintage watch lovers are sure to get their money's worth. Older models are comparatively cheap, and, like all Patek Philippe watches, the Calatrava tends to be an excellent investment in terms of value retention.

The manufacturer introduced a total of five new Calatrava models at Watches and Wonders 2023. Together with the ref. 6007G, which is available with three different color accents, Patek launched a new Calatrava with a GMT function, the ref. 5224R. The brand also presented a new model in gold, the Ladies Calatrava.

Reasons to Buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava

  • One of the most famous and prestigious watch collections in the world
  • Calatrava ref. 96: "Holy grail" for many collectors
  • Timelessly elegant design since 1932
  • Perfect finishes and reliable in-house calibers
  • Solid investment

How much does a Patek Philippe Calatrava cost?

Calatrava reference number Price (approx.) Material, diameter, features
5089G-015 146,600 USD White gold, 39 mm, annual calendar, GMT, moon phase
5326G-001 120,400 USD White gold, 41 mm, textured dial
5088/100P-001 116,000 USD Platinum, 38 mm, hand-engraved white gold dial
6007G-001 82,000 USD White gold, 40 mm, date
6007A-001 77,700 USD Stainless steel, 40 mm, limited run of 1,000 pieces
6007G-010 76,600 USD White gold, 40 mm, date
4978/400G-001 71,100 USD White gold, 36.5 mm, set with 770 diamonds
5226G-001 56,900 USD White gold, 40 mm, pilot's design
5224R-001 53,600 USD Rose gold, 42 mm, GMT function
5212A-001 46,500 USD Stainless steel, 40 mm, weekly calendar, pointer date
997/200R-001 41,400 USD Rose gold, 30 mm, 76 diamonds
7234R-001 39,400 USD Rose gold, 37.5 mm, second time zone
5296R-001 30,600 USD Rose gold, 38 mm, sector dial, date
5196G-001 28,500 USD White gold, 37 mm, small seconds
96 12,000 USD White gold, 31 mm, small seconds
3919 17,000 USD Yellow gold, 33 mm, small seconds, Clous-de-Paris bezel
3470 7,350 USD Yellow gold, 29 mm, manual caliber

Calatrava: Prices in Detail

Along with the case material, a number of other factors, such as the caliber, ornamentation, and availability, play a role in determining the price of a Calatrava. The most affordable entry point is a vintage model from the 1950s or 60s; you can buy references like the 3470, 3468, or 2451 on Chrono24 starting at around 7,700 USD. Newer quartz-powered women's models are available starting at about 8,200 USD.

Popular recent models like the ref. 5196 have seen a notable increase in price. While the gold variant costs an average of around 27,400 USD, the platinum version demands an investment of over 46,000 USD. The ref. 6007A-001 in stainless steel is particularly exclusive: Limited to just 1,000 pieces, this variant of the Calatrava changes hands for roughly 78,000 USD.

At the higher end of the price spectrum, you'll find models such as the ref. 5088/100P-001, which features an especially elaborate dial. Plan to spend about 109,500 USD on this platinum timepiece.


New Calatrava Models 2023

In 2023, Patek Philippe debuted five new Calatrava models. The "Travel Time" ref. 5224R-001 features a second time zone and 24-hour display. The watch displays the time using 24 rose gold Arabic numerals, hand-applied to a navy blue dial.

The rose gold timepiece measures 42 mm in diameter and comes with a sapphire crystal case back that enables you to watch the self-winding caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H at work. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and boasts a 44-hour power reserve. The GMT function is corrected by Patek Philippe's patented system using the crown. The Calatrava comes with a nubuck calfskin strap that matches the color of the dial.

As of June 2023, the official retail price of the 5224R-001 was 57,370 USD. At that time, the watch was listed on Chrono24 for approximately 55,000 USD – a couple of thousand dollars under the MSRP.

Three New 6007G Variants

Patek Philippe presented three simple three-hand Calatrava models with the reference number 6007G. These timepieces differ visually only by subtle color variations.

Inside the 40-mm white gold case beats the caliber 26-330 S C, which is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. In addition to the time, the automatic movement also displays the date at 3 o'clock and has a power reserve of 45 hours.

All three watches feature a black geometric dial with applied white gold Arabic numerals, and differ only in the color of the second hand and the carbon-effect stitching on the calfskin strap. The watches are available with blue (6007G-011), yellow (6007G-001), and red (6007G-010) accents.

Patek Philippe's official recommended retail price for these models is 36,520 USD. As of June 2023, dealers on Chrono24 were demanding anywhere from 60,000 USD to over 100,000 USD.

Ladies Calatrava

The Ladies Calatrava ref. 4997/200R-001 is a 30-mm rose gold variant of the ref. 4997 and features a purple dial. This striking color scheme is complemented by a scintillating bezel set with a total of 76 diamonds, weighing 0.55 carats.

The lacquered dial with its wave motif is simple and refined, and features twelve slim, wedge-shaped indices made of rose gold. The hours and minutes are indicated by gold dauphine hands. The calfskin strap matches the color of the dial.

The watch is powered by the automatic in-house caliber 240. With an overall thickness of just 2.53 mm, the 240 is one of the brand's extra-thin calibers. It oscillates at 21,600 vph and has a power reserve of at least 48 hours.

As of June 2023, the Ladies Calatrava ref. 4997/200R-001 was yet to find its way to Chrono24. The official MSRP, however, is 38,440 USD.


Calatrava Refs. 96 and 5196: The Originals

The first edition of the Calatrava bears the reference number 96 and is particularly popular among collectors and lovers of vintage watches. For over 40 years, Patek Philippe produced various versions of the ref. 96: The very first and most common variant is the 31-mm gold edition with a flat, polished bezel, baton indices, dauphine hands, and small seconds at 6 o'clock. But the timepiece is also available in sleek two-hand versions, with a sector dial, or with Breguet numerals.

By contemporary standards, the ref. 96 is relatively small, which makes the watch ideal for women. A watch in good condition demands an investment of around 12,100 USD. However, depending on the edition, prices can climb to well over 21,000 USD.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 is the modern successor to the ref. 96 and was part of the Calatrava collection until late 2022. The 5196 is 37 mm in diameter and thus much more contemporary than the original Calatrava. With a thickness of only 7.68 mm, the watch is also eminently wearable, thanks to the 2.55-mm hand-winding caliber 215 PS.

A Calatrava 5196 in rose, white, or yellow gold changes hands on Chrono24 for roughly 28,500 USD. The platinum variant, instantly recognizable by its sector dial and Arabic numerals, goes for approximately 46,600 USD in mint condition.


A Calatrava With a Guilloché Bezel

Calatrava models with a guilloché “Clous de Paris” bezel, Roman numerals, and leaf hands are also well-known and highly coveted. If you're interested in one of these watches, look for reference numbers 3919, 5119, or 6119. The design is a bit more traditional than the Bauhaus look of references 96 or 5196. Patek Philippe released the ref. 3919 in 1985 and produced this 33-mm watch until 2006, at which point it was succeeded by the ref. 5119. The latter has similar design characteristics, but is three millimeters wider.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919 is available in white, rose, or yellow gold. Prices range from around 12,000 to 17,000 USD, depending on the model. Models with the reference number 5119 also come in white, rose, or yellow gold, but cost between 18,600 and 22,000 USD.

The Genevan manufacturer presented the ref. 6119 at Watches and Wonders 2021. At 39 mm in diameter, this watch is another three millimeters larger than the ref. 5119 that it replaced and available in white or rose gold. The most notable difference between these models is that the new timepiece is powered by the hand-wound caliber 30-255 PS, which also supersedes its predecessor, the caliber 215 PS. The new caliber is just 2.55 mm thick, runs at 28,800 vph, and boasts a 65-hour power reserve.

As of June 2023, you could buy a white gold ref. 6119 on Chrono24 for around 34,700 USD. The version in rose gold sells for approximately 3,300 USD more.


Prices for Models With Date Displays

The original edition of the Patek Philippe Calatrava does not have a date display. However, the Geneva-based manufacturer has often released Calatrava models with a date function. In early 2023, there were three timepieces with a date window in the collection: the 5227, the 5226, and the abovementioned ref. 6007.

The reference 5227 comes with a 39-mm rose, white, or yellow gold case, and retains the classic Calatrava style by offering a monochrome black or champagne dial, applied line indices, dauphine hands, and a date window at 3 o'clock. The watch is powered by the automatic caliber 324 S C and demands an investment of around 38,500 USD.

The ref. 5226G, which debuted in 2022, also has a date display at 3 o'clock but is otherwise strikingly different from classic Calatrava models in terms of design. With its black textured dial, applied lume-filled Arabic numerals, and lume-filled syringe hands, the watch looks more like a pilot's watch from the 1930s or 40s. At 40 mm, the white gold ref. 5226G is also one of the largest timepieces in the Calatrava line. However, thanks to the automatic in-house caliber 26-330 S C, the watch is only 8.53 mm thick – flat enough to slide comfortably under your cuff. As of June 2023, this pilot-style Calatrava will set you back roughly 57,000 USD.

Alternatively, you can also reach for refs. 5296 and 5153, which were both part of the collection until a few years ago. These watches are Calatravas in the classic style, and include a range of models with monochrome or sector dials. Depending on the variant, plan to spend between 27,500 and 33,000 USD.

The Calatrava With a Pointer Date

For a number of years, Patek Philippe produced Calatrava models with a pointer date under the reference numbers 6000 and 6006. The watches have an extra central hand that indicates the date at the outer edge of the dial. Thanks to the in-house caliber 240 P SC, the references 6000 and 6006 also feature a small seconds between 4 and 5 o'clock, and a 48-hour power reserve.

The current Calatrava ref. 6006 in white gold measures 39 mm across and only 8.86 mm thick. The watch changes hands for around 34,000 USD in mint condition. Its predecessor, the ref. 6000, is two millimeters smaller and costs roughly 23,400 USD new and in white gold. The rose gold variant will set you back about 28,000 USD.


The Extra-Complicated Calatrava

The Calatrava collection may be famous for its subtle, reserved elegance, but Patek Philippe also manufactures a line of models with what are sometimes quite elaborate complications.

Take the stainless steel reference 5212A, for example: The watch features a weekly calendar that also displays the corresponding month and weekday using two additional central hands. The week and month are indicated at the outer edge of the dial, while the day of the week is shown at its center. The date window is located at 3 o'clock.

Powering this timepiece is the automatic in-house caliber 26-330 S C JSE, which has a 45-hour power reserve. With a diameter of 40 mm, this variant has a modern, moderate size, suitable for most wrists.

You can buy this watch on Chrono24 for approximately 46,700 USD. The official recommended retail price from Patek Philippe is 38,440 USD.

Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

In 2019, Patek Philippe introduced the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time reference 7234, a Calatrava pilot's watch in the style of the 1920s. Available in white or rose gold and measuring just 37.5 mm in diameter, this watch looks particular sophisticated and is also suitable for smaller wrists.

The automatic in-house caliber 324 S C FUS not only provides the timepiece with hours, minutes, and seconds, but also displays the time in an additional timezone using an extra central hand. This way, wearers can keep track of the time at home as well as the local time while abroad. The hours on the GMT function can be jump-set with two screw-down push-pieces on the left side of the case. The pointer date located at 6 o'clock can be corrected in both directions using the crown on the right.

The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in white gold comes with a dark blue dial, and the rose gold variant has a brown dial. Both versions feature applied Arabic numerals.

If 37.5-mm seems too small, the manufacturer also offers the Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524, which has a diameter of 42 mm. While the smaller watch demands an investment of nearly 40,000 USD, the larger model will set you back about 52,200 USD.

Calatrava Travel Time Annual Calendar

In 2022, Patek released another complicated Calatrava with a pilot's watch design, the reference 5326G. The caliber 31‑260 PS QA LU FUS 24H equips the watch with an annual calendar, second time zone, day/night indicator, moon phase display, and small seconds. The date window, moon phase, and small seconds all share the 6 o'clock position on the dial. The month and weekday windows are located just below 12 o'clock. The second timezone is indicated by an extra central hand.

The 41-mm white gold timepiece has a black, finely textured dial with applied Arabic numerals. Both the numerals and syringe hands are filled with luminous material.

This highly complicated pilot's watch will set you back around 121,000 USD.


Special Models and Limited Editions

Although the Calatrava is best known for its restrained, understated design, Patek regularly releases elaborately ornamented models. These watches are often limited in number and therefore highly coveted by collectors.

Special Edition 6007A-001 – Limited to 1,000 Pieces

Patek celebrated the 2019 opening of their new production facility near Geneva with a special-edition Calatrava, the reference 6007A-001, which had a limited run of just 1,000 pieces. The timepiece's round case is 40 mm in diameter and features a gray-blue, checkerboard patterned dial with luminous white Arabic numerals. The baton hour and minute hands are reminiscent of those on the Calatrava 6006.

The automatic caliber 324 S C powers this timepiece. The movement is only 3.3 mm thick, and you can watch it at work through the sapphire crystal case back. The case back also features an engraving of the Calatrava cross and the inscription "New Manufacture 2019." The watch comes on a calfskin leather strap, color-matched to the dial.

At its release, the 6007A-001 had a list price of 28,350 USD. The same watch now demands an investment of over 78,000 USD.

The Highly Limited Calatrava 5089

Watches in the 5089 line are part of a special “Rare Handcraft” edition and feature particularly artsy dials. For example, the reference 5089G-015, launched for the company's 175th anniversary, features a white gold dial engraved with a scene from Lake Geneva. The engraving is a handmade bas-relief. Another example is the reference 5089G-066, which features a wood inlay dial depicting the Grand Canyon. The New York Jazz Edition 5089G-067 has an enamel cloisonné dial showing the New York City skyline, some musical notes, and two jazz musicians.

These models are usually limited to just a handful of pieces and cost between 145,000 and 180,000 USD.

Arabesques and Diamonds – References 5088 and 4978

The Calatrava models 5088/100P and 4978/400G are part of the standard collection and are total eye-catchers. The 5088/100P is a platinum timepiece with a deep black enamel dial featuring elegant, hand-engraved arabesques in white gold. This work of art can be yours for around 116,800 USD.

The reference 4978/400G is made of white gold – but you might not know it at first glance. The entire case, including the bezel, lugs, crown, and dial, is encrusted with 770 diamonds weighing a total of approximately 4.4 carats. You can purchase this scintillating timepiece on Chrono24 for about 71,600 USD.


Named After a Cross Fleury

The Calatrava is named after the heraldic cross fleury that Patek Philippe uses as its company logo. During the Middle Ages, this symbol was the emblem of the Order of Calatrava, which protected a castle of the same name in Castile, Spain. The Cross of Calatrava is also part of the coat of arms of Jean-Adrien Philippe's home village, which likely contributed to the company's decision to use it for the brand. In 1887, Patek Philippe registered the Cross of Calatrava as the manufacturer's official emblem.