Some collectors don’t like to admit it, but at their core, watches are meant for daily use. It’s not uncommon for a timepiece to spend most days on its owner’s wrist across multiple years of wear – a fact often reflected in its condition. Above all, vintage watches from the 50s, 60s, and 70s are notorious for heavy signs of wear. They have seen a lot of action, especially so-called tool watches. The crystal may be scratched, the case nicked, the bracelet kaput, and the hands and dial worse for wear. In short, some vintage timepieces look pretty rough.
When one of these well-loved vintage watches goes up for sale, it often raises the question: Is it worth it? Well-worn timepieces are usually a bit more affordable – it’s hardly in mint condition, after all – and that may speak to the bargain hunter in you, but should you be proceeding with caution?
Here are a few tips to help you navigate the world of well-worn vintage watches:
Scratched Crystal: Looks Worse Than It Is
Let’s start on a positive note: Scratched crystal is not that important. In terms of replacement costs, it won’t break the bank. Whether it’s acrylic or “real” glass, it shouldn’t be hard to find an appropriate replacement crystal. In my personal opinion, it doesn’t even need to be the most expensive original option from the manufacturer.
The aftermarket selection is massive. With a little patience and research, you should be able to find a replacement crystal at a reasonable price. In most cases, this will set you back somewhere in the double-digit range – and getting it fitted by a watchmaker isn’t wildly expensive either. The only exceptions to this rule are crystals with unique shapes/curvatures or prints, such as the mineral glass on the Omega Speedmaster Mark II. Expect to pay upwards of $100 to replace this. If you can’t find a ready-made replacement, you can also look into having one made. It’s not terribly time-consuming – or expensive – to have a round, flat crystal cut. Of course, sapphire crystal is more pricey than mineral glass or plexiglass, but it is rarely found in vintage timepieces, anyway. To be on the safe side, explore your options beforehand; a little research never hurts.
Another thing to keep in mind is that scratched crystal makes a watch look much worse than it actually is. If you can look past the superficial damage and then assess the watch, you may find yourself with a bargain. I certainly have in the past.
The Case: Missing Corners and Edges?
From scratches and nicks to full-on dents, watch cases deal with a lot. What’s okay and what’s a no-go when it comes to cases? In a nutshell, if a watch case has lost its original shape due to heavy wear and tear or over-polishing, look elsewhere. If the edges and contours are rounded off, the loss of material is simply too great and little can be done to refurbish the timepiece. In the worst case scenario, you’ll be looking to replace the case entirely. In my opinion, chrome-plated cases in poor condition and heavily damaged gold cases are best avoided. Here, the loss of material can rarely be compensated for, making it nearly impossible to restore or repair the damage.
Cases with black coating, on the other hand, such as the Orfina Porsche Design and some older Sinn models, can easily be refreshed. The coating quality was far from ideal back in the day, which is why many of these older watches look rather worn today. That said, a new layer of DLC (diamond-like coating) can work wonders. Although it may set you back a few hundred dollars, it will protect the watch from any new wear and tear, making it a worthwhile investment – at least that was my experience with a freshly coated Sinn 144.
When it comes to scratches and dents, there are a number of options available to you. Normal, shallow scratches can usually be polished away, while deeper damage and dents can be repaired with a laser.
So-called laser welding works by filling the gaps with case material. I have seen some amazing results. It’s worth investing in this type of cosmetic work for particularly sought-after vintage timepieces. It can also be done by the manufacturer as part of a complete overhaul; some include it in the overall package and others offer it at a fixed additional price. Depending on the manufacturer’s pricing policy, it can be a very worthwhile option.
Bezel, Inlay, and the Missing Pearl
When it comes to the bezel, hands, and dial, the more original, the better. The bezel and inlay easily get worn, but this sometimes adds to the watch’s value. Of course, you can have either replaced, but it’s not a good idea if you have a vintage Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster on your hands, as this may lower the watch’s value. Plus, the contrast of new and old parts often detracts from the watch’s overall look. If it must be replaced, your best bet is to find an age-appropriate original part, which will undoubtedly cost a pretty penny.
Another thing to pay close attention to is whether the luminous “pearl” at 12 o’clock is missing or not.
Finding an age-appropriate tritium replacement pearl can be rather difficult. You’ll most likely have to go without or opt for a more modern replacement.
Worn Metal Bracelets
This is an important topic for some watch enthusiasts, but not for all. Some believe that certain metal bracelets belong with specific vintage watches. Others think the watch itself is what really matters, and the band or bracelet is just a nice accessory. Whatever the case, if you like authentic metal bracelets, they are easy to refurbish. This even applies to the dreaded “stretch” bracelets found on some vintage Rolexes and Omegas. At around $250, restoring a metal bracelet is usually a relatively cheap option compared to the price of an original replacement. One thing to look out for is whether the vintage bracelet is the correct length. It can take a lot of searching – and an astonishing amount of money – to get your hands on replacement links, especially if they are made of precious metal.
If you prefer watches on leather or NATO straps, you can easily opt for a cheaper watch without an original band and replace it as you see fit.
Dial and Hands: The More Original, the Better
In short, the dial is the face of any watch. You can’t really make any compromises here. The dial must fit the bill. It can be aged, but it shouldn’t have too many flaws. Otherwise, it will be all you notice whenever you wear the watch, and it will bother you. Believe me, I know from experience.
There is a bit more leeway when it comes to hands. Ideally, these will have aged alongside the dial, but if new original hands (with SuperLuminova) are rotating above an old tritium dial, it’s not the end of the world. I’d say most relaxed vintage collectors would agree, but the timepiece’s price should be adjusted accordingly.
The one thing that I must advise against is refurbished dials. Not only can this lead to a significant loss in value (as it’s no longer original), but there are very few specialists around the world who can undo the damage. In other words, I’ve seen far too many unsuccessful dial restoration attempts. You are better off just leaving it as is. When it comes to vintage watches, an honestly aged dial is a million times better than a flashy refurbished one. This will stand only out, and not in a good way. However, the most egregious offense is if the dial is a color that the manufacturer never used in the first place.
The Movement: Standard Is Good
Let’s go to the true heart of the matter: the movement. The watch should ideally be running as precisely as possible when you buy it. A recent service is always a good thing. That said, a watch with a (slightly) defective movement may be a good option for bargain hunters. This is particularly true for timepieces that feature standard movements like the Valjoux 7750 or ETA 2824-2. Since these movements are so widespread, it’s easy to find spare parts, making repairs a breeze. You can usually get a thorough service from an independent watchmaker for $250-350 (excluding replacement parts). Generally speaking, if the seller doesn’t know when the watch was last serviced, these costs should be taken into account in the purchase price. An unknown service date gives you room for negotiation.
It’s a slightly different story if the movement is very old, rare, or extremely complicated. My advice? Do your research. That is the only way to tell whether a repair is possible or worth your while. As a general rule, you should avoid watches with visible water damage or rust.
These are the main points I consider looking to buy a well-worn vintage timepiece. Unfortunately, there’s no golden rule that applies to every single watch. However, I hope these tips will help you prioritize signs of wear. Remember, the glass is less important than the condition of the dial, case, and movement. At the end of the day, it’s about doing your research and figuring out whether or not a cheap vintage timepiece is truly a bargain. If you have any doubts or lots of information is missing, you should proceed with extreme caution. Just be patient – another vintage piece will surely catch your eye.
