If, like so many other watch enthusiasts, you’re crazy about the Genevan watch brand with the crown, then you will probably already be familiar with most of the terms in our Rolex lexicon. If you want to find out how much you actually know about the luxury watch manufacturer, or if you are new to watches and want to familiarize yourself with one of the most prestigious brands in the industry, take a look at our Rolex terms explained. We’re sharing what technical terms like Cerachrom, Chronergy, and Oystersteel are all about. In Part 1, we’re looking at Rolex terms from A to G.
The Rolex Lexicon: Terms From A to G
A
AD
The abbreviation “AD” stands for authorized dealer. This is therefore an official Rolex concessionaire. Air-King The Air-King is one of the lesser-known collections and the starting point for Rolex pilot’s watches. With an easy-to-read dial, the series focuses on understatement and functionality rather than precious stones or gold. With its soft iron cage, the ref. 116900 also features anti-magnetic properties, drawing on technology from the Milgauss series. B Biel One of the most important steps in the production of a Rolex watch takes place in Biel: the manufacture of high-performance movements. Without these calibers, Rolex watches would not be what they are today. For this reason, Biel cannot go unmentioned. Big Crown Early models of the Rolex Submariner ref. 6538 are also known as the “Big Crown” due to their larger winding crown.
C
Cellini
The Cellini is a classically elegant dress watch with complications such as a moon phase, pointer date, and/or small seconds. It owes its name to an Italian goldsmith, watchmaker, and Renaissance artist of the 16th century: Benvenuto Cellini.
Cerachrom
If you buy a Rolex today, such as the 116710BLNR or 116610LV with a colored ceramic bezel, you can be sure that its color will last a lifetime. The reason for this is the use of Rolex’s own Cerachrom technology. The bezel is made of extremely hard ceramic, which remains color-fast even when exposed to strong UV light. The numbers and graduations on the bezel are engraved into the ceramic and then coated with a very fine layer of gold or platinum using a PVD process. This gives them an incomparable shine and lasting beauty.
Chêne-Bourg
The creation and production of Rolex dials and all watch components set with precious stones takes place in the Genevan municipality of Chêne-Bourg.
Chromalight
Chromalight is a luminescent material that can glow for up to eight hours, more than twice as long as other fluorescent materials. Chromalight is also very easy to read.
Chronergy escapement
The Chronergy escapement is used in Rolex movements to evenly transmit energy from the mainspring, thus preventing the gear train from running uncontrolled or too fast. It ensures twice the accuracy of conventional escapements and is used in caliber 3255, for example. The Chronergy escapement is constructed with an alloy of nickel and phosphorus, making it insensitive to magnetic fields and protected by a total of 14 patents.
Cosmograph
The term Cosmograph first appeared in the 1950s and was coined by Rolex. Originally, the term was used to describe a clock with a moon phase and calendar function. Today, this refers to the chronographs in the Daytona collection.
Crownclasp
The Crownclasp folding clasp is one of the varied Rolex bracelet clasps. While you can see exactly where the clasp is located with the Oysterclasp or Oysterlock clasp, the Crownclasp is hidden and can only be recognized by a small crown in the continuous bracelet.
D
D-Blue
D-Blue or Deep Blue refers to the Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea with a color gradient from blue to black on the dial. This color gradient is a nod to the Deepsea Challenger’s dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench.
Datejust
The Datejust is considered the forefather of the modern date complication. Launched in 1945, this model was the first water-resistant automatic watch with a date window at 3 o’clock. As a popular classic, the Datejust has become an integral part of the Rolex catalog. It is currently available in 31, 36, and 41-mm case sizes, making it suitable for both men and women.
Day-Date
With the launch of the Day-Date in 1956, the company not only introduced a new watch to the market, but also a completely new complication. The Day-Date was the first wristwatch with a date and full day of the week display. The window for the day disc is at 12 o’clock.
Daytona
From former shelf warmer to absolute bestseller: As the only chronograph in the Rolex line-up, the Daytona is currently one of the most popular watches in the world and comes with three subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. One of the most expensive watches ever sold is the Daytona owned by actor Paul Newman, which was auctioned for almost 18 million US dollars.
Deepsea
Rolex’s most powerful tool watch since 2008: The Deepsea may look like a Submariner or Sea-Dweller at first glance, but upon closer inspection, it is fundamentally different. Measuring 44 mm across and standing 17.7 mm high, it achieves a water resistance of up to 3,900 m. The D-Blue special edition commemorates James Cameron’s dive into the depths of the Mariana Trench, during which a prototype of the Deepsea was fixed to the outside of the submersible to depths of 10,908 m.
E
Easylink
Rolex uses the Easylink system to lengthen or shorten the bracelets of its sports models quickly and easily, without the use of complicated tools. A 5-mm comfort extension link is used for this, which can be conveniently clipped in and out within the clasp.
Everose gold
As with every gold alloy from the Rolex brand, the exclusive Everose Gold variant is a 750‰ alloy, i.e., 18K gold in a perfect blend with copper. The result is a precious rose gold that radiates a lifelong shine, just like the Cellini ref. 50505.
Explorer
This stainless steel adventure watch was designed to withstand the harshest weather conditions. With a diameter of 36 or 39 mm, the Explorer is limited to the essentials and comes with a black, particularly easy-to-read dial and an automatic movement. In 2021, a steel and gold Explorer reference made its way into the Swiss brand’s range as an anniversary edition.
Explorer II
Following on from the success of the first collection, the Rolex offers the Explorer II , a no less robust expedition and outdoor watch, but this time with a date window and 24-hour display. The model was developed to help cave explorers distinguish between day and night even in the complete absence of daylight.
F
Fliplock
The Fliplock system is a simple version of the bracelet extension in which additional plates are placed between the bracelet and clasp and folded invisibly into the clasp. If required, these can then be folded out to extend the watch strap.
Fondation Hans Wilsdorf
One year after the death of his first wife Florence Frances May Wilsdorf-Crotty in 1944, the childless widower Hans Wilsdorf founded the “Fondation Hans Wilsdorf.” The foundation has always been dedicated to philanthropic work and took over Wilsdorf’s full ownership rights to Rolex SA after his death in 1960. To this day, the Fondation Hans Wilsdorf donates a considerable portion of the company’s profits to charitable projects and organizations in the Swiss canton of Geneva. It also awards scholarships to students who are unable to finance education on their own, responds to requests for help from private or public social services when financial difficulties arise, and is also involved in promoting arts and culture.
G
Glidelock
The Rolex Glidelock system is a patented bracelet extension system. The strap can be extended by up to 20 mm in 2 mm increments via the clasp. A further 26 mm can be added via additional Fliplock links – but only in the case of the Deepsea.
