When Tudor first introduced the Black Bay Chrono in 2017, it was met with divided opinions. What was Tudor doing, releasing a chronograph with a tachymeter bezel for racing and a diving watch aesthetic and screw-down push-pieces? Now five years later, it is safe to say that none of it matters – it turns out we are more adaptable than we think! The eye can get used to almost anything, even the unconventional design of the Black Bay Chrono.
The series is now one of Tudor’s most popular, and the manufacturer has carefully curated the range over the past few years. You currently have the choice between 12 different variants, including both panda and reverse panda designs. S&G Black Bay Chronos, in turn, offer a striking two-tone steel and gold look. The entire collection is powered by the in-house MT5813. Its use in this series marked the first time Tudor used the chronograph caliber, which was made in collaboration with Breitling and is based on Breitling’s in-house B01 movement.
Unfortunately, due to high demand, many versions of the Black Bay Chrono are hard to find at authorized dealers. While this is almost standard with sister brand Rolex nowadays, it is somewhat new territory for Tudor. It’s not all that surprising, however; if you can’t afford a seat in the first row, go for the second. Competition is certainly picking up when it comes to Tudor watches, and some potential buyers are being left in the dust. If you don’t want to get into the world of markups on the secondary market, but still want to enjoy a high-quality bicompax chronograph, it’s worth checking out a few other brands. We’ve picked four watches that fit the bill.
The Nivada Chronomaster – A Chronograph with Nine Functions
The history of the Nivada Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (as its lengthy official title goes) dates back to the early 1960s. Long before Tudor even dreamed of the Black Bay collection, Nivada had already released their top model. The Chronomaster boasts nine functions, which was quite a novelty at the time. Nivada positioned the watch to compete directly with the Heuer Autavia and Breitling chronographs of the era. Unfortunately, Nivada, like so many other Swiss manufacturers, did not survive the quartz crisis and disappeared from the watch scene in the late 1970s. Vintage Chronomaster timepieces in good condition are in high demand today, however, and will easily set you back a few thousand dollars.
Of course, vintage watches have their limitations in terms of everyday use. Thus, it’s even more exciting that the Nivada brand was revived by a young entrepreneur a few years back. The watchmaker recognized the potential for a Chronomaster comeback and relaunched numerous versions of the model. Thankfully, the overall design and dimensions are practically identical to the original 1960s watch. Measuring in at just over 38 mm, the Chronomaster is the perfect size for most wrists, which of course isn’t the case for the 41-mm Black Bay Chrono.
All Nivada Chronomasters are available with a hand-winding or automatic caliber. The ref. 86004A has a classic panda dial with a white background and black subdials. This watch comes closest to the very first Chronomaster from the early 1960s. Unlike the Black Bay, however, the Nivada isn’t powered by an in-house movement. Instead, you’ll find one of the most reliable Swiss-made chronograph calibers on the market: the automatic Sellita SW510 M BH. If you prefer reverse panda dials, be sure to check out the “Orange Boy” ref. 86006A. This timepiece features a striking orange chronograph seconds hand, adding a fresh pop of color to the watch’s dial.
The Chronomaster features a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). Expect to see prices just over $2,000 for this watch on a steel bracelet. At that price point, you are definitely getting a lot of watch for the money.
Eberhard & Co. Contograf
The brand Eberhard & Co. isn’t particularly well known among watch enthusiasts, despite being around since 1887. In the early 1960s, the manufacturer from La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland released a chronograph called the Contograf. The watch quickly became a bestseller thanks to its appealing design and high-quality finishing – and then it promptly disappeared from the market. It wasn’t until 2014 that Eberhard & Co. unveiled a new edition of the Contograf at Baselworld.
As is often the case with remakes of vintage timepieces, the size of the newer model grew substantially. The stainless steel watch now measures 42 mm across, making it 1 mm larger than the Black Bay Chrono. This is hardly a lightweight watch and is therefore better suited to those with more sizable wrists. The Contograf is available in several dial variants. Initially, the manufacturer only released limited editions of the watch with a camouflage-style dial.
You’ll find a watch featuring a classic panda dial with a white background and black subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock under the reference number 31069.2. The watch boasts applied line indices and dauphine-style hands, both of which emphasize the overall elegant look of this timepiece. Unlike the Black Bay Chrono with its tachymeter bezel, the Contograf features a black ceramic bezel with hour markers from one to ten. These can be used to indicate the time in a second time zone. You don’t have to do without a tachymeter scale, either; it’s located on the outer edge of the dial. Unfortunately, this watch is only water-resistant to 50 m (5 bar, 164 ft) and the faint luminous material leaves much to be desired. In short, the Contograf isn’t intended to be worn as a diving watch.
The watch is powered by the Eberhard & Co. caliber 8147, which is actually an ETA 7753. This movement offers a date display at 6 o’clock in addition to the standard chronograph functionality. Official list prices are north of $5,000, but you can typically find watches for less than that on the open market. For example, the above-mentioned reference with a panda dial in mint condition on a stainless steel bracelet will set you back closer to $3,000. The same goes for the reverse panda version.
Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono
Many consider the Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono to be a good alternative to the TAG Heuer Carrera, given its tachymeter scale. However, this watch also makes a great budget alternative to the Tudor Black Bay Chrono thanks to its bicompax layout. The history of the Intra-Matic dates back to 1968, when the Swiss-American manufacturer presented their first bicompax chronograph. In the lead-up to the watch’s 50th anniversary in 2017, Hamilton introduced a remake, the Intra-Matic 68 Auto Chrono ref. H38716731. While the original from the 1960s was powered by a hand-wound movement and measured just 36 mm across, the 2017 remake boasts an automatic caliber and a stately diameter of 42 mm. Plus, the reverse panda dial features a tachymeter scale around its edge.
The watch is powered by the Hamilton H-31 caliber. While not a completely in-house movement, ETA has modified its Valjoux 7753 enough that it warrants having its own designation. The H-31 has a date display at 6 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3, and a 60-hour power reserve. The Intra-Matic 68 has a limited run of 1,968 pieces and comes exclusively on a leather strap. Expect to pay between $1,700 and $1,800 to call one your own.
If you are specifically looking for a panda dial, check out the 40-mm Intra-Matic Auto Chrono ref. H38416711. The dial proportions on this smaller watch strike me as much more harmonious than on the limited 42-mm version. You can buy this watch either on a leather strap or Milanese bracelet, a nod to the model’s vintage styling. Intra-Matic chronographs come with a sapphire crystal and are all water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). With a market price around $1,700, you could nearly buy two for the cost of a Black Bay Chrono – perhaps you’d like one with a blue or green dial as well?
Bell & Ross Bellytanker
The Bell & Ross brand only dates back to 1992, and is therefore pretty young in an industry full of brands with more than 100 years of history behind them. The watchmaker was founded by friends and entrepreneurs Bruno Belamich (Bell) and Carlos A. Rosillo (Ross). While the company’s headquarters are in France, all of their watches are made in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. In 2017, the manufacturer presented the BR V2-94 Bellytanker ref. BRV294-BT-ST/SCA, a bicompax chronograph that can certainly hold its own against the Black Bay Chrono in terms of styling. The model name refers to a 1940s race car made from the tank of a fighter jet.
At 41 mm in diameter, the Bellytanker is the same size across as the Black Bay Chrono, but it has a notably flatter profile. Its gold-colored dial is broken up by black subdials. All the hours are marked by line indices apart from the 6 and 12 o’clock positions, which feature Arabic numerals. The date window at 4:30 is certainly a matter a taste and may bother those who have a penchant for symmetrical dials. Similar to the Black Bay Chrono, the Bellytanker features a stainless steel bezel with a tachymeter scale and screw-down push-pieces. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft).
Unfortunately, you won’t find an in-house movement at the heart of this watch. Instead, Bell & Ross relies on the cam-operated caliber ETA 2894-2, which has a power reserve of 48 hours. That being said, the Bellytanker costs around $3,200 on an Oyster-style stainless steel bracelet, which is still well below the price of a Black Bay Chrono.
The BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze makes a good alternative to the Black Bay Chrono S&G. While it’s not a classic two-tone watch, the bronze case pairs beautifully with the black dial and bronze-colored subdials. The bronze minute track and black bezel round off the overall look. This watch is limited to a run of just 999, but it is still readily available for purchase. Expect to see prices closer to $4,600.
